Essential Viewing

Hello Friends and Fumerie Fragrance Community!

Today’s blog post is all about videos! We make no secret of the fact that we prefer personalized consultations, written reviews and appraisals, and personal exploration to the ever-increasing video recommendation culture around perfumes, but where we do love to use the medium of video to explore perfume and fragrance is in the documentary format!

When I first started getting into fragrance Tracy recommended this three-part BBC documentary to me and it changed my worldview forever. Truly, my reactions to the information contained in these documentaries has steered my feelings about this art form and industry more than any single fragrance or brand, and I would say the only thing more influential to my interest in fragrance in general has been Fumerie itself. I think every fan of fragrance and fragrance art, and to be frank any consumer of any products at all, stands to benefit from the material found in these three hour-long documentaries. I’m sure history buffs would enjoy these as well!

I present them here without further introduction, and hope a great many of you will view and enjoy them! I encourage anyone who finds them interesting to comment on this post or reach out to us with feedback or question!

Part One

Part Two

Part Three

Additionally, a few years back I came across this fascinating Al Jazeera documentary on oud, which is probably the most mystical and often asked about single-ingredient in perfume (just edging out ambergris for my anecdotal top spot). I will also present this below without further comment. If you have any other fragrance-informed movie recommendations we would love to hear about them! Feel free to leave a comment or reach out to us directly!

Oud Documentary

Thanks for stopping by, and we hope you enjoy!

Michael

AMA Answers • Fabrice Croise of Scents of Wood

As we enjoy the privilege and honor of an expanding community, we receive more requests for access to our events in ways that can be translated into mediums that aren’t time-sensitive or exclusive to in-person locations. One of the solutions we have been offering in the last year has been giving folks around the world the opportunity to anonymously submit questions to creatives, brand owners, and other important people from within the world of independent fragrant art via our blog. Most recently we published the answers to our AMA with Marc-Antoine from Parfum d’Empire, and are now beyond thrilled to be able to offer the answers Fabrice Croise from Scents of Wood has been so gracious as to offer us for everyone who will be unable to join us for our upcoming in-store event with him! Please enjoy below the questions you all submitted, and their answers!

Question: • What are your favorite places to go for inspiration when working on a new fragrance?

Fabrice’s Answer: Forest and trees (and books about them). I just came back from a trip to Japan and inspiration was everywhere. The tree species, their shapes, their smells… I found myself taking notes and pictures all day long to make sure I wouldn’t forget any detail. The fact that the trip took place during winter was also very meaningful: there is something magical about the way snow and trees combine to compose touching, evocative landscapes.

• It is both refreshing and impressive that you have chosen to be so transparent with the inner workings of how the perfume industry works. What inspired you to share your knowledge and experience with the public?

I just thought it might be of interest to some people. It’s kind of the way I function myself: I am very eager to learn the behind-the-scenes elements of things I am passionate about. It just adds depth and allows for a more complete understanding of any field.

• What initially drew you to the world of perfume?

It wasn’t really my choice. It actually is a bit of a crazy story. I started my career at L’Oréal, a company with a brand portfolio that covers all 4 businesses of beauty (skin care, makeup, hair and fragrance). At that time, every new recruit was interviewed by an HR manager who chose the brand they would start on. After a 45 minute conversation, that HR person suggested I would be a good fit for fragrance. Little did I know (and I am not sure she did either) that she was deciding my entire career at that moment. I wish I knew her name and could find her and thank her. In a way I owe her my entire career.

You have been very ambitious in launching a scent-subscription and the sheer amount of fragrances released annually. Have there been any surprises for you in taking this approach? Have you been pushed to revise your initial concept after seeing the method in full production?

The most important thing I have learned is that time spent on creation doesn’t necessarily translate into quality. A fragrance will not necessarily be better because one spends more time refining it. And I think this holds true of anything creative. The original inspiration, the starting point, is what matters most. Much more so than endlessly fine tuning, sharpening, adding or subtracting. Those things are important of course, but in moderation. Fine tuning a bad idea won’t make it a good one. And conversely, overly reworking a good idea might dilute it to the point of extinction.

• Your collaboration with perfumers go beyond merely assigning a brief. You request they identify personally with creating a fragrance, in the form of choosing a memory or experience of a connection to trees and/or woods. What has this process been like for you?

I truly think that every brand should have their own proprietary briefing system. The brief to the perfumer is such a key moment in the development of a new scent. It should reflect the ethos of the brand and differentiate it from any other. 

In the case of Scents of Wood, we start from what I call the “personal forest” of the perfumer, composed of all their intimate memories of trees, forests, woody notes and wooden objects. That’s what we tap into as a starting point. 

This process has been a very effective way of injecting emotion and personal involvement into the conversation that precedes the creation. And those are fundamental ingredients of a successful collaboration. 

• Recently, you opened up your fragrance studio in Utah to welcome those who have chosen to be members of your scent subscription. What moves you to share this part of your process with the public? What would you like them to gain from this experience?

Actually, our workshop party was open to everyone.  It was the first of its kind and we will definitely do it again. My long-term vision for the Scents of Wood company is a constellation of workshops in different regions of the world, each servicing a local community of subscribers and customers, each open to all of them all the time. Subscribers will visit any of those locations at any time, coming from anywhere. There will always be a place for them to sit, socialize or work, right in the midst of us filling and assembling products. Maybe even a few bedrooms upstairs, maybe interesting meals and activities being offered. Like a fragrance-obsessed social club.

• What inspired you to create NFT fragrances? You are very open and transparent and even encourage your audience to participate in guiding the creations. This removes some of the traditional mystery of the fragrance industry and is a very innovative approach to perfumery. Can you describe what this looks like to you?

We went into Web 3 and NFTs because we are committed to explore every idea potentially linking luxury scents and the digital world. Hence our subscription model, hence our focus on customization, hence our ties to influencers. Web 3 is going through a bit of controversy at the moment, and NFTs have been given a bad name, but the ideas of community-driven creation and co-ownership of brands remain fascinating. We have renamed our project the Creators Club and we will keep exploring with our members all that can be done in terms of fragrance co-creation.

• You have brought so many innovations to your creative approach to perfumery. Macerating cane alcohol in wooden casks, being fully accessible in your process, and actively asking for customer involvement in certain creations. Do your inspirations come from a big-picture vision or are they more guided by the norms of the current fragrance industry and things that you would like to change?

Interesting and complicated question. I think a bit of both. I do have a vision for an inclusive, transparent, happy, and welcoming way of conducting business, for sure. But I also feel the urge to shake things a little bit in our industry. Fragrance creation is such a formatted process, there is a lot of room for change in my opinion. In creation, design, and product development but also in branding, storytelling, and distribution.

• The level of creative input and sheer quantity of fragrances is admirable. Given some of the challenges faced by other brands in the past, do you see this as the way Scents of Wood will continue to operate for the foreseeable future?

Thank you. And yes, for sure, we will keep operating that way. “All creation, all the time” was and will remain our motto. Not necessarily easy, but so much more satisfying and stimulating.

• Will Pascal Gaurin be crafting the next iteration of Plum in Cognac? Do you have any details on what kind of cask will be used for the next formula?

He has! The work on Plum in Cognac vintage 24 is completed and I will present it at the event. I am in love with that re-invention of a scent that I loved so much in the first place. It is quite remarkable. The barrel is a different French oak barrel, that was also used for years to age cognac. 

• The concentration of Scents of Wood is pretty reliable and only deviates slightly between fragrances so far. Do you think Scents of Wood will release extraits at some point?

Only if it makes sense to a particular creation. We choose concentrations based on the olfactive result. Every scent is optimal at a certain concentration. That’s what we are after. We typically do not test them above 24% so it’s unlikely that we will ever release extraits. But who knows?

Thank you visiting our blog and spending time exploring Scents of Wood, and the world of fragrant art. Please feel free to like, comment, or share below!

Explore Scents of Wood’s fragrances here, and their candles here

Reflections on the Path to Fumerie

At the point that I knew I was entirely committed to moving forward with my vision of opening my fragrance boutique, the gravity of what it would take to implement this plan truly set in. Many of the aspects were exciting and fulfilling such as making a list of which fragrance lines would be part of our selection as well as designing the boutique space, including such details as the lighting, color scheme and my personal favorite, the library ladder. Other requirements were much more challenging such as finding the right space for the shop and where to acquire funding for my unique concept. 

In all honesty, I was somewhat delusional in believing that getting a loan would be a smooth, direct process in which all of the pieces would magically come together and I would walk out victorious with a check in hand to execute my dream. The harsh truth was that although my concept was strong, on paper I did not present well. Although I had worked at the same job for over twenty years, I was severely underpaid and undervalued. Even several years in when my duties increased and I was managing the shop, I did not receive a raise or any other financial benefits such as a decent bonus or a 401K option. I was humbled and honestly embarrassed when I saw the look on the face of the bankers that would review my numbers and then express their confusion on why my income was so low. It was then that I realized that getting the funding that I needed to launch my shop was going to be a lot more challenging than I had initially thought. 

One of the things that I had going for me was a very thorough and well laid out business plan. I had done my research regarding competitive analysis, target markets and projections. A competitive analysis involves finding other businesses in your area that are offering the same or similar services. This was a bit of a challenge as there were very few fragrance boutiques in Portland, and none doing business in the manner that I envisioned. I ended up exploring shops that typically had a small offering of fragrances but specialized in other things such as clothing or home goods. Overall, finding comparisons was minimal which served me well in terms of proving my point that what I had to offer was unique. Creating projections was the most difficult aspect of the plan and through the advice of different financial advisors and bankers, ended up being the section of my plan that received the most tweaking in order to be accepted by those that I sought to support me financially. I even had one loan officer tell me to significantly raise the numbers in my five year projections in order to be taken seriously.  I was told, “It’s all an estimation anyways, we would like to see confidence not hesitation in your numbers.” She explained that there was a sweet spot where the numbers were strong but not unrealistic. Although her institution wasn’t willing to support me financially, I took her words to heart and revised the projections to represent a more optimistic view of the future. 

I reached out to traditional banking institutions as well as smaller lending companies in my quest for financial backing. I was turned down again and again and I can candidly admit that I had a few serious meltdowns in which I considered giving up on my dream altogether. Rejection is painful and it’s tempting to believe in other’s limiting ideas of what you are capable of. I look back with pride in myself that I continued to stay true to my vision and chose to listen to my intuition, believe in myself and be confident in my own potentiality. It was on my seventh attempt that I finally found a lending company that was willing to stand behind my vision. The interview was particularly daunting as I presented in front of a panel of representatives from various lending institutions (ten individuals in all), and needed to show knowledge and conviction that my dream was worth believing in. In addition to the moral support I had from family and friends, I chose to wear the fragrance that always makes me feel empowered “Borneo 1834” by Serge Lutens. Throughout the presentation, I would get slight whiffs of this gorgeous fragrance and each time, it would give me a slight boost and felt like a good friend was there to shadow me in this very stressful moment. I admit that some of the questions caught me off guard but I was able to confidently handle it and when I didn’t have a sufficient answer, I committed to getting back to them with one after the interview. I wrapped up the interview by handing out bags of various fragrance samples to each of those that were in attendance, both as a thank you gift and an opportunity to acquaint themselves with niche fragrance. 

Within two weeks of the interview, I received a call from Micro Enterprise Services of Oregon (MESO), that they would indeed be funding me for my boutique. They explained that they don’t typically provide loans for the large amount that I was requesting, but were so impressed with my interview that they would be dispensing three separate loans in all that would take care of all my needs. They have been an integral part of not only helping me to launch Fumerie Parfumerie but also providing business resources and emotional support along the way. I am forever grateful for their support and confidence in my vision. 

Realizing opening a business is both stressful and exhilarating. I truly had no idea when starting out the many ways that this experience would challenge me and how I see myself in this world. Through this experience, I have forced myself to face some deep fears and insecurities and at the same time discovered the depths of my own strength and perseverance. I was drawn to write this post to share my personal experience of opening a business and the challenges as well as the rewards of what this venture was truly like. I encourage you to respond with your own insights as well as any questions that you might have regarding your interest in entrepreneurship.

Just for Fun • Fumerie's Album & Fragrance Pairings

Here at Fumerie we love to pair fragrance with all kinds of things! We have had a lot of interesting prompts over the years, and we never shy away from the abstract. We’ve helped folks find fragrances to go with specific moods and life events, to embody and represent Dungeons & Dragons or other fictional characters, to be worn to specific concerts, and a great number of abstract concepts such as “smelling like a robot.” We are huge fans of the abstract nature of perfumery in both creation and exploration, and we celebrate particularly enthusiastically when abstract concepts are explored with great skill and surprising nuance.

In the past we’ve asked folks on our Instagram stories to make album recommendations which we then listen to in the shop and post fragrances that we think accompany the albums well or represent a vibe that works in balance with their musical and/or lyrical themes (only in our stories; sorry there is no backlog!). As we have been hosting Jasmin Saraï as our first-ever Maker’s Residency display, and since Dana El Masri’s creations are so intentionally inspired by music, we have been talking and thinking about these types of pairing more than normal and would like to give a permanent spot to a few of our couplings here on our blog for you all to enjoy! Below you will find one or two albums and the fragrances we have chosen to pair them with by each of us, respectively. We hope you’ll enjoy this playful exercise and encourage you to chime in with your own album & fragrance pairing in our comments!

Tracy’s Picks

picture by Erykah Badu

Erykah Badu • Baduizm B/W Serge Lutens • Daim Blond

I'm the first to admit that I arrived late to the brilliance of Erykah Badu. Once discovered, the album Baduizm was played on repeat and was an obvious choice for most any occasion. The entire vibe of the album is sultry, and her rhythms guide us through her fascinating streams of consciousness that are often tinged with humor. Her music is a salve that serenades us with her soulful, lush, smooth sounds. She honors the rhythm without rushing and the beats make it impossible to stand still. 

The pairing of Daim Blond with Baduizm was an automatic choice with no hesitation. The moment this scent hits the skin, I find myself breaking into a soft smile and reveling in the pleasure of it's gorgeous embrace. Like Baduizm, Daim Blond is lush, sultry and smooth. The fragrance introduces leather in a unique manner focusing on spice, musk and a creaminess with a touch of apricot. There is an aura to this scent that weaves perfectly with the seductive sounds of the scintillating voice of Erykah Badu.

*Serge Lutens is not sold by Fumerie, nor is Daim Blond

photo by Radiohead

Radiohead • A Moon Shaped Pool B/W Meo Fusciuni • L’Oblio

The band Radiohead has always been one of my favorites. They are musically masterful in both intelligence and skill. When the album A Moon Shaped Pool was released, I was filled with anticipation and excitement. Upon first listen, I admit that I was somewhat apprehensive about the use of orchestration throughout the album. Unlike some of their previous releases, I didn't listen to AMSP on repeat but instead gave myself space between plays to truly digest the experience. To my own surprise, this has become one of my favorite albums and never fails to affect me with it's haunting depth of emotion and vulnerability. This music is immersive and introspective with it's expansiveness and abandon. The soundscape is an existential escape from the pain of being human. 

Perfumer Giuseppe Imprezzabile, captures his captivating fragrance L'Oblio with the quote "What if the good of man is forgetting instead of remembering?". L'Oblio is a reflection on the idea of oblivion and the balance of the intensity of a moment of joy and the relief of the release of letting go. Both L'Oblio and A Moon Shaped Pool evoke a place of internal wanderings and the stillness of sitting in those deep places of emotion. Whether listening to the album or wearing the fragrance, I am immediately brought to a place of contemplation and an awareness of an underlying sadness. The melancholy is embraced in that it is confirmation of being alive.

Michael’s Picks

Image By Portugal. The Man

Portugal. The Man • Evil Friends B/W Imaginary Authors • Bull’s Blood

Portugal. The Man’s album Evil Friends is a nuanced and extremely effective combination of bright pop sensibilities, psychedelic undertones, punk aesthetics, and biting (albeit duplicitous) lyricism. At any given time it is fun, catchy, gnarly, ethereal, and kinda mean. The textural masterstrokes provided by Danger Mouse’s production complete the larger concept at work within and make this album many folk’s favorite from the band. If you’re familiar with the new version of Bull’s Blood (or even just the first) this pairing is probably already making sense to you.

Bull’s Blood is often referred to as Imaginary Author’s ‘dirtiest’ fragrance, which is a short way of saying it incorporates beautifully bold scents to create a piece of scented art that celebrates a few universally accepted darlings of perfume intentionally co-mingled with ingredients that are only to the liking of some. Both Evil Friends and Bull’s Blood seamlessly incorporate elements many would advise against into an overall format that is hard to dislike, an expert-level approach to subversion that many attempt and few achieve.

Is it a coincidence that these two Portland staples fit so well together, or is there something about our city’s culture that translates often into its art? One thing I certainly see as thematic with a lot of Portland artwork is hard-won expert-level execution, and a celebration of the dirtier parts of a life well lived.

photo by Sammus

Sammus • Pieces in Space B/W Eris • Night Flower

Sammus is an incredible rapper who has a unique stylistic often referred to as “nerd-core” because of her references to things like video games and pop culture (especially after the album preceding this one, Another M, which is themed after Nintendo’s Metroid whose main character is the inspiration for her name). I do think this term is reductive and misses the depth of her skill; she also has a PhD and produces her own tracks. I think people are starting to figure out that nerd should be a badge of honor, as “nerds” often look deeply not only into their favorite pop culture fascinations, but most things- including themselves. Pieces in Space is a wildly self-exploratory album and it is a mood from start to finish, as Sammus’ lyrics and production work seamlessly to weave an experience that is somehow both mellow and intense. Picking apart the pieces of her reality and experiences, juxtaposed against broader realities of life, while inserting comedic relief and plenty of her infamous references she creates an album that is only comparable in skill, tone, or effectiveness to certain MF DOOM works.

Similar not only in that it is conceptualized by a scholarly mind capable of deep-cut references in creative director/ founder Barbara Herman, Night Flower accompanies the mood of Pieces in Space perfectly. Both works are challenging in the most rewarding ways, and use elements that are universal, old-school, known and loved, yet presented in a brand new and singular fashion. Night Flower is also somehow both mellow and intense- using contradictory notes like tuberose and suede to create a truly contemplative experience that really only has a peer in the deeply discontinued older version of Shalimar.

Lele’s Pick

photo by frou frou

Frou Frou • Details B/W Cuoium • Orto Parisi

When I first heard this album, it felt like suddenly remembering a dream I had forgotten. It’s romantic, rhythmic, and scattered, weaving together sweeping orchestral sounds with breathy vocals, and synth soundscapes. It mixes once contemporary electronica, with classically trained vocals and instrumentals. It’s both alluring and unnerving. I’m not immune to the resurgence of y2k trends, which inevitably inspired me to revisit media I had only foggy memories of. My updated perspective allowed me to better comprehend the bittersweet nature of this album, and appreciate it even more.

Alessandro Gualtieri’s creation Cuoium is the epitome of compelling contrast. Ambergris, leather, styrax, and patchouli sit opposite to the sweetness of vanilla, mandarin, and violet. Initially, these elements don’t quietly coalesce; they dramatically diverge, just to come back around and compliment each other. Cuoium is a fresh and unconventional composition of age-old materials. I feel the depth and complexity of Cuoium is comparable to Details, and although both could be considered polarizing for their unorthodox approach, for the same reason they are innovative and unforgettable.

Q & A with Mandy Aftel & Tracy Tsefalas

image by aya brackett

In the Autumn of 2018, I was fortunate enough to pay a visit to the Aftel Archive of Curious Scents. This was unlike any museum that I had previously encountered. Although of small stature, this magical place was filled with a vast array of artifacts, aromatic materials, and historical items. The space is intentionally welcoming and invites its visitors to explore to their heart’s content. I strongly recommend a sojourn for anyone with any level of interest in the olfactive world.

In November, Fumerie was lucky enough to collaborate with Mandy Aftel in an online event in which she walked us through her new book The Museum of Scent, Exploring the Curious and Wondrous World of Fragrance. Those who attended also had the opportunity to ask questions of the very knowledgeable and gifted perfumer. I had a variety of questions myself which time didn’t allow me to share on this particular occasion. I reached out to Mandy with a request that she and I might continue the conversation and she graciously agreed. The following is what transpired.

Tracy What inspired you to create a museum? Do you aspire to expand and are there special items that you hope to acquire?

Mandy • Much of what is available to experience in my museum I have collected over a period of over 30 years. Before the museum was created, I would often bring out these special items to share with friends. I loved sharing things that I found beautiful and enriching and it brought me joy to share this world with others who had never had the chance to experience these items before. After repeated times of hauling the items in and out of storage, the thought occurred to me that I could create a space that others could visit, learn about and explore this wonderful world that I found so fascinating. The museum celebrates the multi-cultural underpinnings of ethno-botanical, biblical, and historical offerings that provide so much value and are endlessly inspiring. Initially, I had reservations about whether or not others would even come to the museum but over time have seen a diverse audience that has travelled from across the globe to visit. I don't have any plans to expand the museum but I am always hopeful that I will find some new treasure. 

T Do you use your carefully curated museum as a teaching tool for your students?

 M  Not directly, no. The book on the other hand includes particular items with my students in mind. I have expanded on the blending capacity of natural essences in the book much more than in the museum and I was able to include wonderful tidbits about lore that I found quirky and fascinating. In fact, when I added the essential oil families that you find in the book, they were a very late addition to the overall work. 

T • What was the impetus to write a book about your incredible museum?

M  I was desperate to write a book about the museum! I wanted to reach people who didn't have the chance to visit and to bring alive the beauty, history, and scent. It also allowed me to take a deeper dive into descriptions that are limited in the museum due to the signage having to be concise. I have found that even some of the people who visit the museum who may be tagging along with their partners and not necessarily have an interest in fragrance, find something that piques their curiosity and they can appreciate discovering something new. The book itself has all sorts of anecdotes and serves as an appreciative nod to history. 

 T • Having co-authored a few cookbooks with renowned chef Daniel Patterson, it is evident that taste plays an important role in your own sensorial experience. Can you tell us about your chef's essences and how and why these have become an integral part of your creative process?

M • Everything revolves around the essences. I love the materials and what they add to food. Extraordinarily gorgeous plant materials are meaningful, rich, and historical. All of these food flavors can be used in perfumery but not all of the perfume fragrances can be used in food. Fragrance is a little more complicated because there are so many moving pieces in a perfume but the integrity of the materials is the same.  I'm like the "flavor doctor" at my house and I use the chef's essences all of the time. Even subtly, the essences contribute so much to food and can bring out the most wonderful expression to a meal.

T • You have taught fragrance workshops for many years. How has your approach to teaching evolved over the years? Have you noticed any changes in how your students currently engage in the classes versus the early days?

M I have my own way of teaching that has been evolving and "cooking over the stove" for years. When I was teaching classes in person, they were small groups of eight students. In the studio class, we all shared one organ (a shelving system that holds an array of bottles carrying essential botanicals). If I wanted to show anything, we would pass around that one bottle, which was basically chaos. If I wanted to teach about a specific material, by the time the last person got their nose on the bottle, the focus would have already shifted to something else. I was aware that this method was not ideal but couldn't see a solution. Then COVID hit and everything switched to online classes. I created a system in which I would send out a fragrance kit that both my students and I would use during our sessions. Online classes give me the time and space to analyze the student's creations for the dynamics, not whether the creations are good or bad because in the beginning that doesn't matter. The revising process is what I consider the most important, not the first drafts. Teaching has become more interesting and alive for me over the years.

T • Several past students of yours are now successfully selling their perfumes to a wide audience. What is it like for you to have been such an important part of their olfactive experience?

M • I love seeing them go out into the world with work that they love and I'm honored to have played some role in their lives. There are plenty of other students that I have taught who have never made their work public even though I consider them wonderful perfumers. They are all along a continuum of that type of ambition and it's wonderful wherever they are.

T • Tell us about your participation in the Institute for Art and Olfaction, and how that came to be.

M  I was very excited when Saskia (Saskia Wilson-Brown is the founder of the Institute for Art & Olfaction), launched her institute and I made a point to reach out to her. I was thrilled about Saskia's vision and wanted to help and support it. Before she arrived on the scene, there really wasn't much of a platform to showcase and honor handmade perfumery. It's wonderful that she has an award in my name to celebrate handmade perfumery, and to see these creations getting honored and recognized is fantastic. I'm pleased with the direction that Saskia has gone, she does an absolutely terrific job.

T • What is your view regarding the current state of perfumery? Are you excited by how many people are engaging in creating perfumes on a smaller scale?

M  I love it! There was no opening for that when I started, it was all big brands. Now there is a greater opportunity for people to find your work, buy your work, or even have your work out in the world. It is a very lively environment. People who make perfume are passionate and curious. 

T • Your process for discerning a client's preferences when creating a fragrance for them is fascinating. Can you walk us through that experience?

M Antithesis to my method as a practicing psychotherapist years ago, I don't provide a questionnaire for a fragrance consult. I rely entirely on a person's aesthetic response to materials. I have created a kit that I send out to an interested client which includes 16 top notes, 16 middle notes, and 16 base notes. Upon receipt, they rank their favorites. I believe that one's sense of smell is not driven by their conscious mind or language, it is driven by the animalic aspect of who they are. I make a sample based on their choices and our conversation and then have them critique that for further information. I will remake the fragrance three times. It's fascinating that around 80% of my clients choose the first one. For those that choose to return for another scent at a later time, they rarely choose the same essences to go in it. That particular creation is like a portrait of them at that point in time. 

 T • From a psychological standpoint, do you feel personal taste, interest, and expression through scent complement the human experience of personality differently from other art forms, or is it more similar to taste in mediums like music, movies, ...etc.?

M • The connection that people have with a smell without feeling that they have to like something, truly bypasses a lot of the chatter and gets to something deeply personal that they can attach to. Perfume is an expression of an aspect of who you are; it’s wonderful to have several fragrances for different moods because we humans are so complex.

In addition to Mandy’s newest book The Museum of Scent, Fumerie is also proud to offer Mandy’s other book Essence & Alchemy, as well as her Olfactory Note Wheel. Links to each can be found below.

Explore The Museum of Scent here

Explore Essence & Alchemy here

Explore the Aftelier Natural Parfume Wheel here

AMA Answers from Marc-Antoine Corticchiato

Earlier this year we opened up our blog to our wonderful community to ask any questions of Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, founder and perfumer of Parfum d’Empire, and we are pleased to announce that we are now ready to publish the answers. This AMA was inspired by Parfum d’Empire’s twentieth anniversary, and the answers now stand to celebrate Marc’s most elegant release to date in Ruade, and the arrival of Parfum d’Empire’s new stunning candles. We sincerely thank Marc-Antoine for this special opportunity, and for these thoughtful responses you are all sure to enjoy. We also thank you all for your submissions!

Though his family hails from Corsica, Marc-Antoine Corticchiato was born in Morocco. He grew up between his parents’ citrus groves near the ancient city of Azemmour and his family home in the village of Cuttoli Corticchiato, deep in the Corsican maquis.
A horseman since the age of eight, Marc-Antoine was a competition rider and considered becoming an equestrian professional, but his drive to understand the mysteries of scent production in aromatic plants, and why this scent varies over their life cycle, led him to study chemistry instead. For his Ph.D., he developed a new technique to analyze extracts of aromatic plants through carbon-13 nuclear magnetic resonance. He completed his training at the renowned École Internationale de Parfumerie de Versailles (ISIPCA).
Marc-Antoine went on to work in a research laboratory focused on the analysis of aromatic plants and extraction methods. For years he “dissected” natural raw materials and acquired in-depth knowledge of them. His work was published in international scientific reviews. 
After starting out with aromatherapeutic blends, he joined a Parisian perfume laboratory. He also teaches at ISIPCA, the Versailles school of perfumery. In his quest for the best possible natural plant extracts, he has set up a production unit for essential oils in Madagascar.
Parfum d’Empire, founded in 2003, has given him the opportunity of truly expressing his fearless, physical, baroque style. His in-depth knowledge of natural raw materials allows him to unleash their full power. He was awarded the Fragrance Foundation's Prix des Experts two years in a row—in 2015 for Parfum d'Empire's Corsica Furiosa and in 2016 for Parfum d'Empire's Tabac Tabou.

Please find below your questions and Marc-Antoine’s answers:

Q: I love your work. Aziyade is in my top 5 perfumes, along with Ambre Russe. Have you considered using Oud in a perfume?

A: This question comes just at the right time, as I've finally decided to release a fragrance based on oud. I discovered this raw material about thirty years ago and it immediately inspired me to write a story about the equestrian world, which I know well. I love the animality of oud, its texture, its brightness. In the end, it's exactly these facets that other brands erase when they make claims about oud. So my Ruade creation had its place!

Q: What does the advancement of aroma chemicals hold for the future of perfume in your opinion?

A: I'm not the perfumer best placed to talk about innovations and research into synthetic ingredients. I know that there are some very advanced developments, in particular with a view to ever cleaner production and ever less environmental impact. But I'm more familiar with advances in natural ingredients. Here too, there is a growing concern for the environment. We're looking for ever more beautiful, ever finer qualities, but also ones that don't use petrochemical solvents, for example. We are also working more and more with 'waste', upcycling the by-products of traditional raw material processing. Some of these are very interesting from an olfactory point of view.

Q: Some ideas stand out when I read about you and your work: excess, indulgence, intensity, challenge. I connect these to this wonderful thing you are quoted as saying in the Essencional article, "I don't like scent politeness, without love or hate." I would love to hear you elaborate on your ideas around private versus public fragrance, and how you react to public fragrance when it pleases you, or when you find it irritating or unpleasant.

A: Most mainstream fragrances are tested by consumer panels over and over. Since the general public likes what it already knows, and the perfume industry doesn't want to cut itself off from any potential consumers, it ends up producing the same kind of accords. Perfumers' ideas are diluted into a mass of notes that can be smelled everywhere. Unfortunately, niche perfumery is increasingly tending to follow the same path. Admittedly, there aren't as many consumer tests, but many brands present copies of successes or repeat the same old 'niche' accords. To take Ruade as an example, when I saw that all the brands were launching their own ouds ten or so years ago, I didn't want to launch my own. In the end, Ruade is so different in its intention, in its main accord, that it has nothing in common with the other ouds on the market. There's no woody amber notes, synthetic sandalwood, saffron or rose like everywhere else. The essence of natural oud took me back to the world of stables, and that's the precise story I wanted to tell here. The result won't please everyone: the smell is animalic, there aren't the molecules that will stick to your skin, and the accord doesn't smell like any other perfume. But for me, niche perfumeries must continue to take these risks, to dare, because that's why people come to independent perfumeries like Fumerie in the first place. Not to be disappointed, as they may have been by a very uniform perfumery. To love or hate.

Q: I personally own 50ml bottles of every fragrance you offer. Every fragrance from your house is bottle-worthy, in my opinion. The reason for this is twofold. Each fragrance is very well crafted, while at the same time totally unique and unlike any other fragrance on the market. My question is, how do you achieve this uniqueness in your fragrances? Do you use unusual or rare ingredients? Is there some other reason, or reasons, that can be attributed to this uniqueness?

A: Parfum d'Empire has a rare configuration in the world of perfume: we are entirely independent and I am the perfumer and sole owner of this house, I have my own laboratory. This allows me to use natural raw materials that few houses dare to use (and in such quantities) and the cost price is never an obstacle. Finally, this freedom gives me what is the greatest luxury in the world: time. Today, brands launch with 10 fragrances, the quantity of new releases is insane... When I created Parfum d'Empire over 20 years ago, I only released one fragrance, Eau de Gloire. Today the brand has 23 fragrances, and each one was created with the time it needed. With my fragrances, I've always wanted to tell original stories that are close to my heart. I've never compromised a release "because it had to be done" or because the market demanded it. It's probably this time, the greatest of luxuries, that contributes to the original character of each creation.

Q: What are your current inspirations; either in materials or concepts?

A: I'm always working on different projects at the same time. But after several perfumes that told very personal stories (Mal-Aimé, Vétiver Bourbon, Ruade...), I'm thinking of returning to more universal themes. Eroticism and the sacred are the oldest origins of perfume and never cease to fascinate me, and these themes are already present in Parfum d'Empire. But there are still a few angles I want to explore.

Q: Do you have any tips for those just starting out making perfume?

A: You have to be curious! Being open to the world around us is a source of creativity. Don't worry about trends, follow your own ideas, and work hard!

Q: When you teach at ISIPCA, is it in a specific area of focus?

A: I teach a few olfaction courses, which introduce the different raw materials in the perfumer's palette (both natural and synthetic). I also teach a few formulation classes. We study the great perfumery accords, to introduce the concepts of balance, structure, and facets.

Q: What drew you to your original concept of fallen empires? How do you feel this concept has evolved over the years and what specific direction do you see your current and future work moving in?

A: I've always been interested in the universal power of scent. Perfumes go through the ages and civilisations, and mankind was perfumed even before it could write. Time has made me realise that my early perfumes were personal stories in disguise. I preferred to talk about Ambre Russe, about the Russia of the last Tsars, with its great feasts. Whereas I used to talk about my parents' parties in their days of splendor. Cuir Ottoman, it was the leather of my father's Jaguar. Over time, I've become a little more confident and I'm more comfortable talking about my experiences through my fragrances. I've spoken more explicitly about Corsica, notably with the L'héritage corse collection. As for the future, I'm not really asking myself that question. I already find it hard to analyse my work (past or present)...

Q: Is there anything you find particularly inspiring in the modern fragrance industry?

A: I've always been fascinated by new plant extraction techniques, especially CO2 extraction, and by the more sophisticated separation techniques that allow you to separate one or more molecules precisely from the plant extract, which means you can work on the scent in a surgical way. When it comes to new perfumes on the market, I say this without pride, but I'm not really up to date with what's coming out.

Q: What drew you to teaching?

A: Perfumery is a field where you're always learning. All perfumers, even the most gifted, are always redoing their ranges. Teaching allows me to have new exchanges and therefore new ways of looking at raw materials, which I wrongly think I know by heart. I mentioned curiosity earlier when you asked for tips for beginners, and well, I'm still applying it! It forces you to revisit the basics.

Q: In your early study of botanicals, did you ever study plants used for early medicines or cultural rituals? How did you find yourself transitioning from botanical research to the extraction and use of botanicals in fragrance?

A: The use of early medicines plants and cultural rituals came to me as my professional life progressed. I actually worked in an aromatherapy research laboratory at the beginning of my career. At that time, aromatherapy was unknown to the public, and few people were interested in essential oils. It was a transition to the world of perfume formulation because I kept my chemist's hat on, specialising in the analysis of perfume plants, but I also made my first formulas. I had to create blends of essential oils with two constraints: to maintain therapeutic efficacy and to have a pleasurable dimension in the final scent of the product.

Q: Are there materials that you find challenging to work with?

A: Many natural raw materials are delicate to work with. For example, I love immortelle absolute. I use it very often in my perfumes, even in traces, but it's a very difficult product to master. When I was working on Immortelle Corse, I spent a lot of time trying to introduce it in the right way.

Q: Are there materials that you hope to work with in the future that you have not yet featured in afragrance?

A: For a long time, it was oud ! I knew exactly what to say with this extraordinary material, which took me straight back to the world of horses. But I think more about the stories I want to tell than just the raw materials. And I still have plenty of stories to tell!

Explore Parfum d’Empire’s fragrances here

Explore Ruade here

Explore Parfum d’Empire’s candles here

Fumerie's Favorites 2023

Hello Friends!

As we near the halfway point of November, our Customer Appreciation Month, we wanted to share with you some of our current favorite things. Below you will find five fragrances chosen by each of us that we have found ourselves wearing most often this year. Some of these are new releases, but overall we are simply sharing the things we find ourselves wearing most often and some of our thoughts about them! As you will likely notice, we each have pretty specific tastes. This is one of the reasons we do what we do! In our experience finding and enjoying fragrances is most enjoyable when it is deeply personal, which is why we started offering free online consultations in addition to our in-store ones this year. We also believe a bit of variety goes a long way in the enjoyment of fragrance, both in access at home (owning a fragrance) and just trying things in shops and in general to expand your exposure to fragrances that can surprise you outside of your normal preferences (for better or worse!). We hope sharing our current faves will be helpful or entertaining to you, and we look forward to assisting you however we can on your scent journey!

Tracy’s Picks

Ierofante • Quartana Upon first sniff of this inspired fragrance sprayed on skin, I had the grin of a cat that swallowed the mouse. It is one of the most satisfying leather fragrances that I have had the pleasure to wear in years.

Ravi • Naso Di Raz Ravi is a sultry, layered tobacco scent that wears beautifully. I find myself reaching for this fragrance when I’m in the mood for an elevated, sophisticated experience.

Ambre Loup • Rania J This is the ultimate comfort fragrance. I don’t typically gravitate towards amber-forward scents due to the fact that many of them read very similar to each other and don’t offer much of a twist. Ambre Loup is edgy and compelling and makes me swoon every time.

Little Song • Meo Fusciuni Bitter coffee and tobacco wrapped in a state of melancholy. Nothing more needs to be said.

Hinoki in Hinoki • Scents of Wood Hinoki in Hinoki is a sophisticated take on the well-loved essence of Japanese cypress. It is both contemplative and meditative and somehow makes me feel more intelligent with every wear.

Lele’s Picks

L' Oblìo • Meo Fusciuni L’Oblio embodies the fluctuating nature of emotions while simultaneously offering a sweet relief from the monotony of life. A thoughtful incense journey.

Nolita 96 • La Boticá Fresh and self-assured. The considerate, understated, and reliable friend you’d like to have on your team. Notes of santal and iris create this comforting feeling of familiarity. It’s crisp without being sharp, and soft without being too delicate.

Santal Umeshu • Scents of Wood My go-to when I want something sweet, yet unapologetically green. Santal Umeshu is delicious without being explicitly gourmand. Its sweeter elements of orange, umeshu, and vanilla, are grounded, and complimented by notes of sandalwood, ginger, and violet leaf.

Bois d'Ascèse • Naomi Goodsir The smoky leather fragrance of my dreams! Bois d’Ascèse is something I reach for when I want an all-encompassing experience. With every wear, I’m transported to a brooding and never-ending green landscape that is completely overshadowed by a bright and blazing bonfire. The dry down feels like the cathartic morning after; contemplation and smoke.

Molecule 01 + Guaiac Wood • Escentric Molecules This has been my go-to when I’m in spaces where I’d like to embrace anonymity, without depriving myself of smelling good. Guaiac wood is stable and intriguing to me, and I love the way this scent melds into my skin. A fun scent to layer with as well, especially for fragrances that you feel could benefit from the addition of woods.

Michael’s Picks

Shah'Ryar • Rania J Right when we opened the first package containing Shah’Ryar I could tell from the notes Rania provided and the color of the fragrance that I was going to love it. This dense extrait is centered around a focus on high-quality and rare ingredients, but to me the star of the show is the rich hay that permeates every section of this fragrance supporting every other ingredient; uplifting the caramel, mellowing the smoky oud, and expanding the rich osmanthus. This fragrance is so to my taste I can hardly believe it was made! If you are fan a of (or curious about) Slumberhouse, I cannot recommend any other non-Slumberhouse fragrance more highly than this for a similar experience of rare and highly concentrated ingredients expertly implemented into an art-forward composition.

Ummagumma • FZOTIC If I am ever making a list of favorite fragrances and the list does not require specific restrictions (like new releases or ingredient focus) Ummagumma will always make it in the lineup, especially if the question is what are you wearing most often?. Folks often ask me what my favorite fragrance is. It is Ummagumma, and I have worn it more than anything else for some years now. I have no idea if I will ever find anything that can dethrone it, but I’d be amazed if I do. I’m not the first to say it, but this thing is criminally underrated.

The Lobster • Moth and Rabbit Parfums The Lobster is already a legend amongst those that know it. If you, like me, struggle to find a marine that you love because they lack the edge or dirtiness that you associate with coastal experiences I highly recommend trying this (even though it is a chypre). Also, watching the scenes from the film of its namesake that this fragrance is meant to accompany while smelling it is a mind-blowing experience- if you can, try it yourself! Moth & Rabbit can be hard to come by in the States and we rarely have enough Lobster to satisfy the demand so if you love it and see we, or another shop, have it in stock don’t hesitate to pick up a bottle.

Flor De Selva • La Boticá This fragrance reminds me more of the Sonoran desert, where I grew up, than any other fragrance. It is also something I have looked for in a fragrance for years in that it is actually spicy! It is delightful and skillfully executed, as all La Boticá fragrances are.

Odor 93 • Meo Fusciuni Picking just five fragrances is hard! As a tuberose fan, Odor 93 narrowly edged out Mélodie de l'Amour (as a white floral masterpiece I am obsessed with) and Varanasi (as probably the best perfume I have ever smelled) simply because I cannot stop wearing it. I admit part of my obsession is sentimental as this is the fragrance I chose to have Meo sign for me when he visited our shop, and I treasure the opportunity to have met him and Federica; but, truly, having my obsession with tuberose, complex spice, resin, and wood brought together in a stunningly original fashion by one of the best perfumers to have lived is so special. I can say I would likely be wearing this just as much if I had never met the lovely creatives behind it.

Smelling Outside the Box: Reflecting on our Catherine Haley Epstein Event

From our event with Catherine Haley Epstein June 15, 2023

On June 15 we were lucky enough to again host Catherine Haley Epstein for an event here at Fumerie. As a participant in Fumerie events on both sides of the bar, I found the event to be particularly engaging. The format of Catherine’s presentation welcomed a lot of audience participation, exploration, and creativity. We blind-smelled many perfume ingredients and wrote down our impressions of them, discussed some of Catherine’s inventive fragrances, and each listed ten smells we would show an alien visiting from another planet in order to help introduce them to Earth. Overall we were encouraged by Catherine to get outside of our normal comfort zone of smell description and experience, as she also does so well in her book Nose Dive.

Catherine’s visit stuck with me, and some specific conversations that came about organically during the event caused me to ruminate on a few specific concepts in the world of fragrant art; gender, notes, and artistic intention.

On Gender
As a cisgender white American male, I don’t make it a habit to proselytize my opinions on gender’s role in perfume because I do not believe the conversation or narrative needs to be shaped by me or those who fall in my demographic. I know a lot of people have strong opinions on the matter, and many of them have experienced gender-based adversity that I will likely never know. Out of respect for the experiences I cannot know, I ask that you take my opinions on this matter with a grain of salt.
I do consider myself someone who tries to be an ally and has railed against gender stereotypes as long as I have known of their existence. I came to fragrance largely because I found the gendered versions of fragrance to be reductive, pandering, boring, and (to me) offensively commodified. My main beef is with the binary, but I also am against gendering perfume- but not because I don’t think gender identity has a place in fragrance, I just can’t say I support the source material.
As a society, we have a lot of work to do in terms of understanding the spectrum of gender, and this is especially true in terms of language (and even more so in terms of universally accepted language). Being that our modern world has been so defined in terms of gendered products, I can’t see us developing a referential language for perfume that accommodates the true breadth of gender- but again my core issue is with the source material.
So what do I mean by source material? I mean referential language. I don’t agree with the idea that perfume should be explored and expressed solely through means of referencing the way other objects smell, and since this is the primary way that perfume is talked about, I especially do not think any commonly used referential material is inherently gendered. I am not alone in this opinion, but I do think songs, architecture, food, and other art forms are not inherently gendered by society and therefore perfume should not be either (Fabrice from Scents of Wood said so much just last week on the Scents of Wood Instagram account). This opinion is admittedly oversimplified because gender does come into play in art constantly, so I could see how gender does have a role to play in analyzing fragrant art but not categorizing it. Most exhibition or sale of art is not separated by gender, and it is especially not separated by which gender is more likely to (or even ‘should’) enjoy it.
While there may be elements of perfumery and fragrant art that contain commentary on gender, reference gender, or even push gender boundaries based on the commonly held conventions around gendered fragrances the source material for these fragrant explorations is still mainly based on the binary conventions long held by people with limited perspectives (mostly men) or the main intent of successfully marketing and selling fragrance above understanding the vast variety of experiences in a lived gender experience. Until we have a lot more time with a much more diverse group of people producing fragrance (that is also accessible to more people on the consumer side), I believe we are using referential language that is poorly allocated in terms of gendered experiences to the point it should be largely, if not entirely, ignored. In other words- I think it’s time we all let go of these conventions and start building new ones based on our own experiences! What puts me in touch with my masculinity may be (and likely is) different from the next person. Choosing a fragrance to wear based on how it makes you feel about yourself in relation to your gender is an amazing and empowering choice, and is also a choice that you should be free to make without the industrial-grade pressure of marketing conventions. Everyone should be free to find their own definitions, connections, and reference points (and in fact, we are)!

On Smelling Notes

Getting right back to discussing the ‘source material’ of referential language in describing scent- it is true that something helpful can also be limiting. I can think of many activities and skills where this is true, and many where guidelines and protocols are completely essential. I do not think anything having to do with art or its interpretation lands in the latter category (unless, arguably, you are a professional critic or creator). Fragrance stands alone as the only art form that most people think requires the tools of reference to interpret, and I believe this hinders a great many people in terms of experiencing the artistic side of fragrant compositions.
Often when I help folks with their consultations here in the shop, I will encourage them to explore the scent without knowing the supplied smelling notes before revealing the intended notes or backstory/ inspiration. One of the big reasons I choose to do this is because of Catherine’s book, and another perspective that reaffirmed my positions on ‘smelling outside the box’ was that of Sissel Tolaas’ views expressed in an episode of the podcast Perfume on the Radio. Overall, these experts reflected a sensibility and notion I had been internally mulling over for some time- do we need to acknowledge referential terminology to enjoy and explore fragrant art? Does referential language inhibit our ability to enjoy fragrance on a more emotional or intuitive level? Are there better ways to talk about fragrance as an art form than using the framework of reference?
Obviously smelling notes have a place in perfumery, but I do think the way we use them is largely strange and inhibiting. We don’t search for songs we like based on notes, paintings we like based on individual colors, or books we like based on how many times they use our favorite words. Fragrance, and smell in general, offer a type of comfort that these art forms do not- one that is harder to explain in its effect, and more intensely tied to deep personal memory (often on a level we cannot pinpoint). I believe this is one reason why referential language is the default for experiencing/ evaluating fragrance, but I also believe it is again a byproduct of streamlining sales. I don’t know exactly what I would propose “instead” of smelling notes, but I do know that allowing myself to experience fragrance without searching first for ingredient-referential words has enhanced my experience with the medium a great deal, and further reaffirmed for me that fragrance is my favorite artistic medium. I also know that the Odorbet project that Catherine co-founded is doing great work in expanding and exploring the world of descriptive language as it refers to scent in an accessible and open-source fashion, and deserves your time and attention.


Check out Odorbet here
Explore Nose Dive here
Find your new Carnet candle here

From our event with Catherine Haley Epstein June 15, 2023

Q & A with Meo Fusciuni

Last month we were lucky enough to host renowned perfumer Meo Fusciuni and his wife Federica at our boutique for a wonderful event filled with personal stories, inspirations, and anecdotes about his emblematic fragrances. In an effort to share this wonderful experience with our online community and those who could not get a ticket, and to further the experience of those who attended, we have made available this Question & Answer interview between Meo and Tracy. We hope you enjoy it!

Tracy: Sharing one's art with the world is generally a very vulnerable experience. Your creative process lays bare your innermost thoughts and feelings through poetry, photography, music, and fragrance. Do you feel compelled to be that vulnerable and what does that look like for you?

Meo Fusciuni: In my creative work, all forms of expression combine, finding a perfect balance. I believe that recounting one's intimacy through all these forms is not an obligation for me, but it is the only way I know to achieve my goal, which is to excite through fragrance. I believe that in every art form, the most intimate and fragile part of ourselves holds the essence of expression. I love this aspect of my work, each perfume contains not just a formula, but often an entire year of my life, my travels, my reading, and the music I listen to. It becomes a total, almost holistic experience of perfumery.

T: Are your inspirations always travel-based?

M: Not all of them. Travel is definitely an important part of my work and research. The journey puts me far from the central focus of my life, it distances me and makes me look at things differently. Traveling puts you close to other cultures, people who are different from you, and your way of thinking; this helps me a lot. The escape from the every day is sometimes necessary. Having said that, not all the fragrances in our collection are about distant journeys. Some fragrances such as Notturno, Luce, Little Song, and Spirito, are journeys into my soul, deep inside myself. They are moments when time is suspended and we find ourselves, like in a labyrinth.

T: Do you ever experience "writer's block" when it comes to your perfume creations?

M: It happened to me only once, before I created Varanasi. After the release of Spirito, I had an inner emptiness occupying my days, it was the first time it happened. At first, it was panic, then I experienced that period as a good time to study new techniques in my craft. Fortunately, then came the inspiration to create a new trilogy, dedicated to my love for Asia, and soon after the idea to tell the story of three places of the heart, India, Laos, and Japan through three trips I had actually experienced. A timeless trilogy.


T: Are there other perfumers/ creators that inspire you?

M: Initially, when I embarked on this new path in my life, I was very afraid of smelling the work of other perfumers and other collections. I was afraid of being influenced in my technique and creative inspiration. After a few years, I realized that I had achieved my own olfactory signature and I started to smell a lot of the great perfumers, both contemporary and pioneers of this world: Jean Claude Ellena, Lucien Ferrero, Mark Buxton, Alberto Morillas, Dominique Ropion, Arturetto Landi, Pierre Bourdon, Lorenzo Villoresi, Jean Carles, Germaine Cellier, Edmond Roudnitska, Isabelle Doyen.

T: With your background in studying natural medicine at a pharmaceutical facility in Parma, do you intentionally use herbs and materials with specific properties to evoke certain effects?

M: My studies had a great influence on my work in the early years. For what you mean, I only did it specifically once, in 2# nota di viaggio (Shukran...). I have always loved the nerve-tonic action of Mint on a mental level on humans. Its action on our mood is very strong. So when I thought of recounting the moments of joy I spent in Morocco, I immediately thought of using Mint as the main ingredient in the composition.

T: How does the interpersonal relationship with your wife as the artistic director for Meo Fusciuni work for you both? Has it been this way since you launched the line or has it evolved over the years?

M: Our roles within Meo Fusciuni are quite distinct, but there is a continuous and daily confrontation on our path. Over the years I think it has always improved. Every aspect of my work blends into Federica's work. She has to translate into matter and aesthetics what I narrate in fragrance. I think it is an endless process of growth, each of us learning from the other, every day.

T: What is the difference between working for yourself versus creating a fragrance for another fragrance house such as Masque Milano and your fragrance "Luci ed Ombre”?

M: In the past, working for other brands has been very interesting and challenging. You are confronted with different briefs from your own path and each experience becomes a challenge to yourself. There is more technical work behind a consultancy. When working on a brief, my work is less of a gut feeling and I think more about staying within the lines of the brief I have been given. Of course, whoever comes to me as a perfumer is looking for a very strong emotional part, and I understand that, but I always have to control my impetus, which I never do in my creations for my own brand. I always let the impetus follow its path, taking all the risks that can arise from that.

T: You have stated that your method of creating a scent follows the pattern of naming the fragrance, choosing a story and/or an experience, and finally composing a formula. Can you walk us through that experience? How do you know when a fragrance is finished?

M: I think every perfumer has their own method and I think it is important to find one's own early on. When one of my perfumes is born, the spark starts with the name, as if it were the epiphany of a new birth; for me it is the genesis of my work. At that point, behind the name lies a story, personal, intimate or a journey, to a place in the world that tells or may in the future tell the story behind the name. At this point I have everything, name and story...it is at this point that my being a chemist and a perfumer comes out. The formula stems from my very intimate relationship with the raw materials, which I feel are close to me, to my story. It is a very intimate dialogue with them. In the first five, or six months of work, solitude and intimacy is fundamental for me. I realize that a fragrance is finished when the emotion in the feeling is so great that I start to cry, it has always been like this. It is as if my spirit empties itself of all the tensions accumulated over the months, the mind frees itself.

T: Have you always approached making perfumes the same way, in regard to inspiration, vulnerability, and process, or was there a shift to allow for the methods you've shared with us?

M: This is a beautiful question dear Tracy, because I believe that in life the smartest thing a man can do is to believe in the changes, in the metamorphoses that life brings you and not to hold on to thoughts.
I have changed my technique over the years and I think I have grown technically over the years, but I still want to improve, study and do better. All this leads you to grow and sometimes to change your primordial ideas. I think that's life and its natural course.

Thank you for this space into your blog. I will always carry the experience I had with you in Portland, always, in my heart.

Fumerie on the Radio!

Last month, Anthony Alvarado from XRay FM radio interviewed me for his show Find the Others regarding the world of scent and more specifically the Fumerie experience. I enjoyed walking him through a variety of facets of the history, artistry, and inspiration of niche fragrance. I took pleasure in Anthony's curiosity and delight in acquainting himself with the world of artful fragrance, and truly hope you enjoy the listen!

Give the interview a listen here

Fumerie's Seventh Anniversary: Fragrant Memories

Fumerie has turned seven years old, and to celebrate we decided to have a giveaway that celebrates the spirit of our boutique space, the desire to represent fragrant art, and our lovely community. We asked our customers to write us a fragrant memory associated with Fumerie to be entered into a raffle to win a bottle of the luxurious Idole by Lubin (which Lubin so graciously donated to us for this cause, and to celebrate our years of working together). Your willingness to share your fond memories humbled us and touched our hearts, thank you!

Below you will find the (over sixty!) stories and memories of our community as they were submitted to us. We hope they serve as interesting and fun, as well as a time capsule for the last seven years in our little corner of the world of fine fragrance. We hope that if you haven’t yet had one of these memories with us, that you will soon! Using our free online consultation service or stopping by our boutique would certainly be an opportunity to create your own fragrant experience and memories.

Fumerie Fragrant Memories- From Our Lovely Community, 4.6.23

“I had only had experiences with department store perfumes prior to Fumerie. I remember learning about woody and warm notes from Tracy and how special some small producers are. Remember Me was a treat and Oriento an early purchase that is still a favorite! Every trip down to Fumerie makes a special memory!”
- Jill W.

“It's hard to think of just one amazing memory, as every time I come into the shop, I feel the warmth and welcome to celebrate and explore the artwork that fragrances can be.  However, I think a shining moment was several years ago, when I arrived rudely early for a Tauer event where Andy would be speaking.  When I arrived, I was surprised to see not only Tracy setting up shop, but Andy Tauer himself getting in your way, talking up a storm.  You more-or-less planted him in front of me with a bottle of Hyacinth and a Mechanic and then moved along to finish setting up for the event.  I got nearly an hour of one-on-one time talking fragrance with Andy Tauer, a dream for me as a lover of his work, and a blessing for my deeply introverted soul!  It was an amazing experience, and hopefully you were able to do what you needed to do, too, before the festivities began. Congratulations on 7 years!  Here's to many more!”
- Marjorie H.

“When I was reading Tarot at the now-defunct Secret Forest across the street I'd often stop in to chat with Tracy and experience new fragrances. She always has time for everyone; one never feels rushed or pressured to buy. She has been generous with samples, too. Tracy is wonderful! She even remembers that I don't drink wine, and has grapefruit seltzer for me at the special events, which I appreciate enormously! I also enjoyed Luca Turin's talks at Fumerie very much. He is a delight -- pulls no punches and is extremely entertaining as well as knowledgeable. The book he and his wife, Tania Sanchez, wrote helped me narrow down which of the thousands of perfumes on the market today might be worth trying, and led me to discover my favorites: Tauer's Au Coeur du Desert and Ormonde Jayne's Ormonde Woman. Which I buy at Fumerie. “
- S.C.

“My husband found your shop listed in a perfume magazine he received and wanted to stop by to see for himself when we were visiting my parents in Vancouver, WA.  I remember feeling as if I had entered a treasure chest filled with exciting and new things to discover.  I wasn’t disappointed- not only did I find some of my favorite lines which you carried, you generously helped me learned and explore similar, but different, options to my favorites. Fumerie is one of those places I recommend friends to visit when looking for something extraordinary. Congratulations on your anniversary!”
- Stacey N.

“My memory of your shop is when I was starting in my fragrant journey 7-8 years ago and was looking for interesting things to try.  Your team recommended I explore Slumberhouse and a new love was born - this was so unique and different from everything else I have smelled.”
-Marianna K.

“Stumbling across your store with my then seven-year-old son (who is now twelve). He was confused about why we weren’t going to Atlas Pizza. Then having him welcomed in the store and having him share his impressions of five scents. “That one smells like the backyard.” I wish I remembered what it was, but I was hooked — and I’ve come back many times ever since.”
- Pauls T.

“This is not so much one memory but kind of a composite impression of all the times I’ve made an impulse stop in the middle of a stressful workday.  It’s such a treat to walk into the calming atmosphere of the shop and see Tracy and Michael’s smiles behind the counter. I love the moment when I open the door and the cloud of fragrance wraps around me and pulls me in.  Often there are interesting strangers with similar proclivities to share notes with, and always something new to learn.  Fun conversation and laughter ensues.  Then, with lovely fragrance treasure in hand, I stumble back out onto the street rejuvenated, ready to meet the next challenge smelling like a rose!”
- Delinda F.

“Two years ago I was so excited to visit “The Fumerie” as I  have been following Tracy’s blog and emails. 
We were heading to the Portland airport after a vacation at Cannon Beach. My husband drove to your store and I was having heart palpitations. He said how much money do you need as he said $100.00 dollars should be enough right? I gave him my famous look and pout and said just forget it let’s head to the airport.
We flew back home to Pittsburgh during a very quiet flight, as I was still pouting.  We got home and my husband finally broke down, so he got me a ticket to fly back to Portland the next week  by myself just for the day (5 hours on the ground) just to visit your store. 
A week later I was at your store again heart fluttering ready to go in.  I went in and there were a few customers  so I sat down and took your store in.  WOW….I was in heaven.  Not sure if the pup there was the store mascot but I gave him some loving while waiting my turn.  My turn came up and I got to meet Tracy.  She was so gracious and made me feel comfortable as she took her time with me. I already had some things written down on what I wanted to smell.  She also showed me some other fragrances which had the same notes or the same perfumers. I purchased two lovely fragrances and she also gave me a few samples to also play with when I got home. 
When I tell folks about my trip they say “really?,” but I tell them it was a dream of mine to visit your store. 
On our trip last year to Cannon Beach, guess where we stopped on the way home? My husband actually came in and was impressed by the volume of scents and the cool atmosphere. Of course we are coming back this October for now my annual visit to see the great Tracy and use her nose and expertise to get another fine niche frag (or two or three) I’m a new lifelong fan!”
- Shirley R.

“When researching Portland as a place to move after leaving the military, I came across a film of the Division street area by monocle magazine where Fumerie was highlighted. My husband and I decided Fumerie was a must see and visited on our research trip- I’m not saying we moved to Portland because of Fumerie, but we were blown away by your store and the specialist who helped us (tracing the career by memory of Edmond Roudnitska) and it was definitely in the back of our minds when we made our decision!”
- Lisa Y.

“I travel through Portland 2-4 times a year on a very long road trip. One stop at Fumerie was after 7 hours in a car. I was a mess, however that did not seem to affect who I was greeted.  I was asked what I might be looking for. I remember being shown several fragrances along those lines. I was not rushed. It was almost like I had the shop to myself. I could really take my time and sniff, look and ponder. Money for perfume on a school teacher's salary is rare and I appreciated the help, time, and peace in order to make my selection. My sister had gone shopping down the street and it was fine for me to sit in a corner and look at perfume books while I waited for her. I love the calm, less crowded and knowledgeable help. And I love the Ormonde Jayne Tolu I ended up buying. I wish I lived closer!”
- Shelly W.

“My Scent Memory of Lubin’s Korrigan is that of how I imagine the Snoqualime Lodge in Twin Peaks. A burst of fall apples, balsamic juniper and cedar, warm whiskey and a buttery leather accord..there I sit by the fire in that chair, spellbound”
- Mindy G.

“I bring my kids to the shop every year to buy fragrances for Fathers day.  Each kiddo picks something they like. Tracy always makes this "picking out" process so easy and fun. And after pulling 50 bottles, clearly amazing patience!”
- Erin J.

“The year was 2018, I believe, when I first set foot in Fumerie Parfumerie. About a year or so before I had just started to explore the world of creative niche perfumery and was quite excited to learn about the presence of a few perfume shops here in Oregon, albeit still quite a drive from Central Oregon. Still, I decided to take advantage of a visit to some relatives in Eugene and made it my mission to make the trek up to Portland after spending some time with them. My plan was to peruse fragrances at Fumerie, and possibly one or two other shops depending on the time I had available.
From the outside, this charming shop looks quite unassuming apart from the ornate lettering of the Fumerie sign, but upon entering the door you know this is no ordinary store. The sensation is akin to stepping back in time into an antique apothecary, a mesmerizing world replete with shelves full of strange, magical olfactory potions housed in ornate bottles. Your nose just quivers in anticipation to unlock the power of each fragrant creation. Yet, I was struck most of all by Tracy, the heart and soul behind Fumerie Parfumerie, a person brimming with warmth, intelligence, and love for all who entered. It was an incredible joy speaking with someone exuding such passion for the art of perfumery. I can't recall the first fragrances I asked to sniff, but Tracy tirelessly obliged my curiosity in sampling everything that interested me. This was truly my first time experiencing many works I had only just read about. Time seemingly stopped as bottles of Jovoy, Masque Milano, Jeroboam, Bruno Fazzollari, Tauer, Ormonde Jayne, Profumum Roma, and many others were brought out. At any time, I had countless tester strips before me as I embarked on amazing scent journeys to realms previously unknown. All the while, the minutes, then the hours imperceptibly ticked by. I was totally enthralled and delighted. Every now and then other people would come in to sniff fragrances or purchase bottles, and Tracy treated everyone with incredible love and a casual, yet professional, knowledgeable demeanor. The highlight of my first visit to Fumerie was when Tracy was kind enough to let me smell some legendary creations, some of which are no longer in production I believe.
It was with great difficulty that I finally concluded my amazing first visit to Fumerie. I discovered I had no time left to visit the other shops in Portland. For people in love with the world of fragrances, it is entirely too easy to spend countless hours at this charming location. Fortunately, I was able to somewhat prolong this wonderful experience by purchasing several samples to take home with me. Since then, I have truly been wanting to return to Fumerie Parfumerie. It'll definitely be one of the first stops on my list whenever I go to Portland.
Congratulations Tracy on your boutique's seven-year anniversary! Wishing you and everyone there all the best and many more years sharing the love of niche perfumery with those of us in Oregon and beyond! Thanks so much for the chance.”
-Eirik H.

“My fiancé Shaun and I visited the Fumerie in November 2022 to choose a bottle for our 13th anniversary. Our host was most welcoming and engaged us in lively conversation that spanned not only the wonderful niche fragrances on offer but our own experiences and thoughts about fragrance. As we sat at the cozy bar with at least thirty scents laid out before us, Shaun and I discovered a mutual love for unusual and indefinable fragrances. We had been collecting perfumes for a few years prior and knew that we both enjoyed bold, individualistic scents, however, we found ourselves in an environment where requesting notes of gasoline and mushroom were taken in stride with several selections quickly pulled for our consideration.
Fumerie introduced us to both old and new makers that we had not had the privilege to sample previously, and we discovered unique profiles that we could not have imagined, like the standout Nuit de Bakelite and our anniversary purchase, Meo Fuschini's 2# Nota di Viaggio (shukran...), two of our current favorites that are worn frequently and with passionate abandon.
During our conversation with our host, I shared my background as a chef and my current career as an environmental scientist. I've been interested in creating my own 'green' accords as there are endless profiles I've encountered in nature that have yet to be captured in a bottle. 
Our host shared his own experiences in creating fragrances which inspired me to invest in a still and some basic perfuming supplies. I've been enjoying blending, aging, and creating oils, hydrosols, and compounds from local flora, and can credit our host's warm and unpretentious introduction into fine niche perfumery as an introduction to a pursuit I'll continue to enjoy throughout my life. 
Thank you, Fumerie, for the wonderful memories, unforgettable sensory introductions, and boundless enthusiasm for all things fragrant.”
- Rayna K.

“The many houses Fumerie introduced me to that I would otherwise be sadly unaware of.”
- Blake

“Meeting up with a special perfume friend for a cool spring morning of sniffing at the shop, chatting with Tracy and each picking out a bottle to take home.”
- Tara C.

“When I walked past for the first time & saw the beautiful dried flowers hanging in the window, and they inspired me to hang my own above my bed. Rose is my favorite fragrance after all.”
- Zadie  

“The very first time I perused fumerie.com, I was like a kid in a proverbial good smelling candy shop! A friend mentioned that Fumerie sells samples of niche fragrances, and if I were lucky, Slumberhouse makes a guest appearance when they are released. My first purchase was samples of Scents of Wood.  I’ve already tried Plum in Cognac, which is a masterpiece, but these little cute samples are used after a nice shower or for a quick mood enhancer! Ever since I became aware of Fumerie, I check it every day in case Slumberhouse makes an unannounced release! It has become a daily ritual! I intend to visit Fumerie if I am ever in the Portland area!”
- Percy K.

“I remember visiting Fumerie for the first time and being amazed by the beautiful store and incredible selection. What stood out to me most, though, was Tracy's warmth and the generosity with which she shared her wealth of knowledge. I came away with fragrances that were new to me but have now become treasured fragrances. And I'm excited to visit the store again in a couple of weeks to see what new treasures await me! Thank you Tracy!”
- Lesli C.

“I began my fragrance journey about a year ago, but I have always been a very keen lover of scent. The town I go to university in has no dedicated fragrance spots, so I was thrilled to discover Fumerie on a trip back to Portland (my beloved hometown) over winter break. I came in with my younger brother, who has also just begun diving into fragrance. We were absolutely blown away by the sheer number of fragrances in the store! It quickly became clear that we had a lot to learn (in the most exciting way!). We purchased the fall sampler set and have had a blast smelling them and comparing notes. As broke college kids, it was exhilarating to smell some of the perfumes we drool over but cannot yet afford. We had such a magical experience at Fumerie, and I always recommend it to fellow PDX perfume lovers. Thanks for all that you do!”
- Helen P.

“It was just last fall. I was feeling a little lost and sad. I knew nothing about fragrance. I walked in and was greeted warmly. I sat next to a lovely woman and we kept sharing smells and likes. I never knew about niche. I only knew about “mall” fragrance. So 6 months later I’ve learned so much. I know designer, niche, indie. I know what I like. It all started at Fumerie. I found comfort in fragrance.”
- Courtney L.

“I first walked into Fumerie the summer before I moved to California for college. My attempt to prepare for adulthood by finding a signature scent may have been ambitious, but the quest ended up consuming my summer and revealing my passion for fine fragrance. I was introduced to Grisette by Lubin at Fumerie and the search was over. I have now graduated college, moved to Chicago, and recently I've accepted a position working for a fragrance manufacturing company. My fragrance collection has expanded, however, I still have and adore my bottle of Grisette, a truly unique rose scent that is feminine, playful and smells of fresh independence. Fumerie ignited a passion in me that continues to burn bright and I will always be grateful.”
- Meredith N.

“Just missing out on the surprise drop of the future unicorn and HIGHLY desired Black Grev from Slumberhouse and thinking I would never be able to obtain it. Ever. Then I sent you an email asking that if there was any left over (I had no hope really but figured I would take a shot) I would love to purchase it. A couple days later getting an email saying there were two bottles that were no longer spoken for and I was the second person to ask, and that it now one had my name on it. No words can describe the joy I received from that email. Thank you again from the bottom of my heart and congrats on 7 years!!!”
- Travis W.

“After spending a year anxiously hunting Slumberhouse perfumes, another Fumerie loyalist filled me in on the email list. When Black Grev released, I got an email as soon as it released and bought a bottle on the spot. It was the first time I managed to avoid the stress and disappointment of finding out about a release only after it sold out.”
- Ryan J.

“I have had so many delightful experiences with Fumerie Parfumerie, which includes most recently the sampling of Quartana (Hemlock) for my 86 year old mother. It was absolutely heart-warming as I loved how her eyes lit up when I gave her the sample to try. Presently, we are experiencing a rapid decline of my father's health (her husband of 67 years) and this little gift was perfect to give as a slight pause from our circumstances. My mom is extremely particular about scent and not quick to purchase; however this little 'joy in a bottle' created a wonderful engaging moment for us.”
- Susan S.

“The last time I saw my friend Sarah, we were having wine at Division Wine with her mother.  We walked down to Fumerie to indulge our senses and treat ourselves.  As we arrived, Sarah's mother pulled me aside and told me not to tell Sarah, but she had lost her sense of smell and would I help her "put on a good show" as we explored the fragrances?  We proceeded to have a delightful guided tour of so many amazing fragrances and I regret I do not remember the name of the wonderful individual who assisted us, but their vivid descriptions of each fragrance helped Sarah's mom conjure in her mind what it must smell like.  Even though she could not actually smell any of them, she would remark "oh, the peach - I love the smell of peach" or "the smell of a forest after rain - that is always such a wonderful smell".  Her experience was one of imagination and recollection based on the excellent descriptions provided by the Fumerie team member.   Sarah's mother reminded me that fragrance lives in the mind as well as in our olfactory. This memory will always make me smile - it was a wonderful afternoon.”
- Lesley D.

“My first time at Fumerie is my fondest memory there. It was a rainy morning in January and I was set to meet my friend there at the at 11am. I remember when I first opened the door there was a burst of a pleasant mixture of scents shadowed by the library-like shelf of perfumes in the background where a woman in a white button up shirt and black vest was arranging bottles. I felt like I was in a quaint little shop out of a story book.
As I walked in I was greeted warmly and we introduced ourselves. I took a seat at the counter and was prompted to tell her what scent profiles I’m most into, then she began to pull an array of bottles from the shelf. I took my time and smelled each one and was so surprised that I liked almost every single one! I had been so used to the impersonal mall fragrance shopping experience where I always left with my usual perfume because I never liked anything else. This experience and the knowledge from the passionate people working there opened up a whole new world of fragrance for me as I’ve never been a fan of shopping for perfume online either. My friend finally arrived and she also sampled an assortment of fragrances. We had so much fun sniffing away that we didn’t even realize two hours had gone by! It was tough but we finally decided on which perfumes to purchase. I left happy and with a new obsession that day. I haven’t stopped raving about it since.”
- Theresa L.

“When I first started getting into fragrances over five years ago a friend if mine had a sample of Tauer 02. He had talked about the Fumerie so I ventured to the Fumerie and met the amazing owner Tracy and purchased my very first niche bottle of Tauer 02. I will often stop by to purchase something or just spend time learning  about notes from Tracy. All of my memories have been positive.”
- Drew W.

“I’m honored to discover your wonderful perfume store and start my collection of Slumberhouse from my first bottle that I ever got from you. I’ve been following your wonderful store since then and can’t wait to visit you some time soon in person. Your store is one of the reasons I’d want to come to Portland. Thank you! Happy anniversary!”
- Margarita E.

“I have a wonderful memory of coming in on a cold winter evening to listen to Luca Turin speak about fragrance.  I am quiet and don't go many places by myself, but this time I did.  As soon as I entered the shop, I was whisked into a series of conversations with wonderful people who all seemed to know each other, but as it turned out, they didn't, they just were lovely and excited and in love with scent.  Luca was wonderful, of course, and I cherish my signed book.  Something shifted that night and I love perfumes and talking about them even more than before.”
- Jackie A.

“Even before I read to the end of the email announcing your anniversary, I was thinking, Fumerie really is one of my favorite shops in Portland that I’d recommend to any visitor. It’s classy and yet you always give people in the shop all the time in the world to smell everything. I love that you gave me and my niece and sister the tip to smell a bit of skin between sniffs. So unassuming and real, and I’m glad to have the coffee bean thing debunked. My young niece and I like to visit perfume places together. She was overseas in Belgium as an exchange student and she brought me a gift of samples from a parfumerie there. We visited your shop when she was here. You were so patient and unaffected about letting us see what we liked and answering her questions (she wanted to know about how long perfumes could last and you explained to her how to store them and still enjoy them by rotating them out). You hosted a sweet book party one summer eve and I remember being struck by how cool and interesting all the people in the shop were. Every time I go in, there are both men and women sampling and shopping. It’s pleasing to have such a welcoming place to learn about and find such nice things.”
- Briana M.

“I remember first stepping foot into Fumerie years ago when I had just turned 22. I had always been meticulously utilitarian in my expenses up to that point and I entered this space with the intention to finally treat myself to something decadent as an adult. I was greeted by Fumerie's warm and illustrious owner who took me on an olfactory tour through many many samples after hearing about my favorite scents and sensory experiences. I knew immediately when the one had been found. I made my most hallowed purchase and have worn that scent every special or not so special occasion since to remind myself to enjoy life's beauty. All of my friends have heard my rave reviews of the store and most of all the woman behind the counter that made me feel seen and cared for in such a personally profound moment. Thank you!'“
- Devon R.

“My first “adult” fragrance was an unexpected gift from my dad. The perfume was Diva by Emanuel Ungaro. It was spicy and made me feel invincible. When I asked dad why this particular perfume, he said he wanted me to know I was the best and to never settle. Since then, I’ve always had a special fragrance - a combination of layered scents that make me feel like me, and feel like the scent was created only for me. Visits with Fumerie allows me to reclaim that first experience with perfume and I know I’m in the right place to discover another unique way to express who I am.”
- Greta G.

“My memory is from November 2022, the only time I've visited the store (I live in British Columbia) and Michael spending close to an hour with me and letting me smell dozens of perfumes. I walked away with about a lot of decants. It was such a lovely experience with the way the store looked, the ambiance, and all the lovely smells. I took a number of pictures and occasionally look back at them fondly.”
- Nicholas M. 

“I stumbled into Fumerie, shortly after I moved to Portland while Christmas shopping. I was so excited to talk with Michael who was passionate and friendly. I have attended two events- the Scents of Wood event and Fragrance Swap 8, and I told my partner I feel like "I have found my church." It's thrilling to meet people who share an enthusiasm for discovering new fragrances. Thank you, Tracy, for creating a lovely shop and community space.”
- Traci M.

“At the event where Andy came to premiere Au Coeur du Désert, I purchased my first Tauer perfume ever: the original L'Air du Desert Marocain, which I'd always loved. Andy was signing bottles, and when I asked him to sign mine, I think maybe he was a little bummed that I didn't like the new Au Coeur since I wasn't buying that one instead. But I did! I just liked L'Air even more. Anyway, Andy was super nice and it was a great event.”
- Joshua B.

“Love coming to the boutique with my friend Renea. We step up to "the bar" and sniff until our hearts are content.  Always have great catch-up chats with Tracy and step away with a glorious bottle of something delicious!”
- Diane D.

“I came into the store with several people already sitting at the counter. I smelled fragrances that I had chosen, then started talking with the other people at the counter and smelling the fragrances they had chosen. The mutual conversation and discovery with fellow fragrance enthusiasts was very enjoyable. And I left with a sample of something that I normally would have never tried because they were smelling and testing it and loved it. Now I love it, too!”
- Erin P.

“My positive memory is actually buying my first bottle of perfume at Fumerie! My dad was really sensitive to fragrances growing up, so I never experimented with it when I was younger. I didn’t really know where to start with perfume but I knew I didn’t want a big name fragrance, so I researched and found Fumerie. I came in and sniffed lots of samples, and chatted with the lady behind the counter about what I wanted and ended up with Imaginary Author’s Memoirs of a Trespasser. Now I want all the perfumes, and love to come in to grab samples and get new suggestions!”
- Lexie B.

“I came in once and there was a woman sitting alone with probably 10+ different bottles in front of her. She looked so happy and like she was having the best time ever. She invited me over to smell Poets of Berlin with her so we could decide if that's what David Bowie smelled like.”
- Alia D.

“I greatly enjoyed the early in-house events involving the materials used in perfumery. They gave me a chance to experience many of the notes I had only read about in descriptions of fragrances. I mean, how many chances does anyone have to actually smell whale vomit? The in-house events also brought together a very diverse group of people united by their love of fragrances in a space that celebrates that love.”
- Chad H.

“A slow walk down division street on a sunny day brought me into Fumerie a few summers back.  I didn’t know what to expect. Walking into this little gem, within the first ten minutes, I was wafting little samples of the most incredible smells I’ve ever encountered. My daughter, who was with me, is also a scent lover. The gentleman at the counter asked if she wanted to smell something like “blueberries”. He passed her a small sample of the smell and her eyes rolled back in delight, saying “can I eat it?” She loved the smell. And so did I. Now we both wear this special scent. Thank you for the forever memory, and this delicious perfume.”
- Lana V.

“A dear friend (and my only friend who is also truly a fragrance enthusiast) was visiting me from the Midwest where I'm originally from. I live in Seattle but love Portland so we took a day trip there. We both new Fumerie was on the top of our list of spots to visit. I'd been several times before but it was magical going with him and sampling all the fragrances we've discussed and dreamed about. The staff let us have a field day and enjoy ourselves. We made purchases but by no means are extravagant spenders. I think one of the things that makes Fumerie so special is the focus is on the magic of niche perfume and not sales goals. A day I'll never forget!”
-Kyle T.

“Best memory would be my first time going to Fumerie. I had been talking to my friends about wanting a signature scent and looking into perfumes. Then later that day while on the way to Artifact, lo and behold there's Fumerie! It felt like the universe had heard my request and delivered. Went in and left with Jeroboam Origino.”
- Adriana A.

“It was probably right around the time you opened, when my young daughter and I were waking by and decided to stop in.  Many months prior, I had smelled a fragrance on a customer at my place of business- one that I instantly fell in love with.  I followed this particular customer around my store, trying to decide if it would be appropriate to tell her how lovely she smelled and ask her what she was wearing.  She was eager to tell me it was called Molecule 01. Not having ever really experienced in person perfume shopping, I was a bit gun shy and slightly intimidated to inquire whether Molecule 01 was a fragrance you carried. I didn’t want to insult.  I was so thrilled to discover that you did.  You were so lovely, and happily offered me a sample tube, which I actually still have.  It’s long since been emptied but amazingly, still holds its scent. My budget at the time did not allow me to purchase a bottle, but you treated me just as kindly, as if I were a paying customer. Thank you for that.”
- Amy M.

“First experience was with mom and we had a lovely time. I had just started my wine education class and so we were sampling perfumes and describing the notes. It was special because my mom was visiting and loves perfume. It was a moment I will always treasure.”
- Kimberley D.

“I will always remember the first day I visited Fumerie.  A coworker who knew I liked fragrance recommended a new perfume shop for me to check out.   To my surprise, it was close to my home and when I walked through the doors I saw a familiar face, Tracy, who had helped me with several amazing fragrances at another local perfume shop.  I was so excited to see she had opened her own business and have been shopping with her ever since.”
- Faye G.

“My favorite perfume day, and the day I happily associate with Fumerie and Tracy, was a crisp, sunny late fall morning in Portland over 6 years ago. I excitedly drove to my first, official perfume event. The experience felt surreal because I couldn't imagine people like me; people wildly, deeply excited by perfume and everything associated with it (instead of those that merely tolerated my hobby or thought it was strange). It didn't take long before I was talking and laughing with people who shared that passion. People that loved talking about patchouli and how it can get chocolatey or wet and earthy, that liked the smell of moss, that appreciate a skanky civet note (that know what civet smells like), that unabashedly love rose/olibanum/gardenia etc; I FOUND MY PEOPLE. It wasn't long before we landed in front of the counter at Fumerie. Greeted by Tracy's smile and dozens upon dozens of fragrances, the group wasted no time. The energy of our group amped up as we all began spraying and testing, all the while talking, laughing and breathing perfume, perfume, perfume! I remember laughing to myself because no doubt we could be heard from the street but any curious potential patrons could literally not fit into her shop and potentially risk hearing damage because the level of our voices kept rising with every new bottle she brought out to test. 
The smell of Fumerie sticks in my head always. The amalgamation of deep base notes and sharp green top notes and the warm heart notes of hundreds of fragrances. That smell is intoxicating to me and I associate it with joy, with connection and discovery. 
Thank you Fumerie, and thank you Tracy for many years of happy scented discoveries and friendships bonded over scented memories!”
- Anna V.

“Ever since I was younger I always loved to smell great. I never knew I was missing a whole world of fragrance until I visited Fumerie. My boyfriend and I decided to celebrate our 8th anniversary in Portland and he said we had to stop by Fumerie. I was excited but did not expect to be blown away. When we first arrived I was nervous because it was a cute shop with fragrances I have never heard of. When we went inside we were greeted by Tracy and she was welcoming and extremely knowledgeable. She shared her knowledge with us and answered any and all questions with such a pleasant response. Not once did she show that she was annoyed with us or the questions we had. We ended up taking two fragrances home that day and since then we have collected over 25 fragrances from Tracy. Thank you for sharing your wonderful shop, your vast knowledge, and for being a warm personality in a dark world.”
- Madison G.

Michael's 2022 Favorites

Here we are in March, and I am just getting around to writing about my favorite fragrances of 2022. After the holidays we really wanted to focus on our website, starting our free online consultations, and planning some events for 2023- so here we are! I’m happy to have the opportunity to share some of my feeling about the things I explored and loved in 2022. Not everything on this list was released in 2022, but would have been new to me regardless of the year is was released.

I would say my taste in fragrance is not bound by genre, though I do have my favorites. The main thing that draws me to a fragrance is that is exciting! Sometimes that comes by way of artful composition/ storytelling, other times it is out of genre experimentation and originality, and sometimes it’s just because something is so surprisingly pleasant. Please find below some of my favorites that I tried for the first time in 2022. As always feel free to email us if you have any questions about anything on this list or otherwise!

MY FAVORITES OF 2022

  1. Varanasi • Meo Fusciuni - Few fragrances have the effect on me that this one did. It is truly unique and devastatingly well done. The notes listed for this fragrance are like a greatest hits of all of my favorite notes: saffron, nutmeg, cardamom, incense, amber, jasmine, rose, ambrette, cypriol, spikenard, vetiver, oud, gurjum, leather, and animalics (if I had to guess I would say civet mainly). The opening of this fragrance (which to me is beautiful and captivating) is about as bold as they come, and can turn some folks off to it because of this fact- but the drydown is pure magic. The complexity and evolution of this fragrance is astounding. As it explores all of the fantastic notes listed, it slowly but surely arrives at it’s final destination which is simply one of the best leathers I have ever worn. The leather is soft, clean, and addictive. I always love when a fragrance gives me a scent memory, and in this case I was absolutely transported! The opening notes reminded me of my grandparents garage/ workspace with a pleasant mustiness and a sweet motor-oil like vibe. Artful, inventive, refined, and elegant- an absolute favorite of mine; not just of this year but of anything I have tried to this day.

  2. La Ravissante • MDCI- I know I am not alone in my love for this fragrance as I have personally seen positive reactions to it from everyone I have shown it to- regardless of their normally preferred genres or if what they are shopping for is wildly different. When looking at the notes I would never guess that this would be something I would love as much as I do, especially because it has a few notes I don’t normally gravitate towards (marshmallow, marine notes). Some of the best parts of this fragrance come from these very notes! The way this fragrance plays with genre and creatively dances around as it dries down led me to wear this probably more than anything in 2022, despite it being released close to the end of the year. The opening is a delicious bouquet of florals and fruits, and the dry-down is a genre-bending masterpiece that is equal parts pleasant, comforting, and playful. I don’t want to give too much away by continuing to describe it as it is simply delightful to explore! This is one of two perfumes made by Bertrand Duchaufour that made this list.

  3. Dincanto • Profumum Roma- Profumum Roma is an exceptional house, but in my opinion they really raise the bar in two areas- patchoulis and gourmonds. Dincanto gives us the best of both of these star players, and throws in some amazing jasmine as well. This thing is like my all-time favorite Ummagumma’s dressed-up cousin and has had me coming back for more since the first spray.

  4. Ierofante • Quartana- Arguably the best of an already excellent house, Ierfofante is fragrant storytelling at it’s best. Beginning with a gasoline accord (jet fuel, according to Quartana) to symbolize the blasting off on the hierophants’ journey, and zipping through bright spices, it ultimately lands on one of the classiest most luxurious smoky-leather bases you can find anywhere.

  5. Indigo Smoke • Arquiste- It’s one of the best tea fragrances. It’s one of the best incense fragrances. It’s one of the best non-leather smoky fragrances. Indigo Smoke distinguishes itself by being a standout in more than one emphasis, and the medley is absolute perfection. I believe this fragrance will be Arquiste’s sleeper hit, and will end up as widely well-regarded and talked about as Misfit eventually.

  6. Santal Umeshu • Scents of Wood- Move over Plum in Cognac- I’ve got a new favorite from Scents of Wood! This unique fragrance has a perfect blend of creamy sandalwood and boozy umeshu plum. This thing is amazing and it blooms on skin in a way that has to be experienced to be understood. Highly (highly) recommend for any boozy fruit fragrance fans.

  7. Golestan • Tauer- This one also replaces an old favorite as it is easily my new favorite from Tauer- which is saying a lot! This has to be one of the coziest florals I’ve ever smelled, in part because of it’s resinous base and use of patchouli; but mainly because of the beautiful honey in it’s heart. The rose and jasmine are so well-blended they almost become a new fantasy floral that is just delightful atop all those warm resins. Definitely something that can be worn comfortably at any time of year.

  8. To My Father • Vilhelm Parfumerie- This is the second perfume on this list made by the legendary Bertrand Duchaufour, and the only one I bought the same day I smelled it. Not everyone agrees with me, but this is the most stylistically similar fragrance to my favorite Slumberhouse compositions (Baque, Jeke), but with top notes! Sweet stewed stone fruits, whiskey, tobacco, and leather- what’s not to like? All expertly combined by one of the best perfumers to do it. I highly recommend for any fans of Slumberhouse to at least try it out.

Honorable Mentions: Kiste • Slumberhouse (2022 version), Luce • Meo Fusciuni, 2# Nota Di Viaggio (shukran...) • Meo Fusciuni, Summer in Paro • Hima Jomo, White Whale • Masque, Ambre Safrano • BDK

Some Great Things I Found Not Sold In Our Shop: Moon Bloom & Slowdive by Hiram Green (Netherlands), everything from Bombay Perfumery (India), and everything from Nosa Profumi (India)

Anamalics and Adventurous Smelling

Mid November of 2022, I was asked to join a panel on fragrance for The American Society of Aesthetics (ASA), at the Embassy suites in downtown Portland. The below post is inspired by my presentation and represents the core ideas shared that day.

Many years ago, I married into a family that owned a fragrance boutique and ended up working for them for over twenty years. Before joining the business, my previous experience with fragrance was limited to smelling a few things in department stores and lightly exploring essential oils. I admit that initially I was quick to judge smells as good or bad and had a very limited vocabulary when it came to describing my olfactive experiences. Since then, I have consciously tapped into my curiosity around the world of scent and been open to smells that I would have earlier labeled as unpleasant or downright repulsive. It can be illuminating to slow down and smell with more mindfulness and less judgement.

Working on the retail side of the fragrance industry for so many years, I continue to find it fascinating that most of us will go in for a second sniff of something that we find highly unpleasant or confusing. I’ve even had customers experience a gag reflex only to put the scent strip back up to their nose in an effort to comprehend the experience. Dopamine is released in the body upon smelling something novel and the brain actually creates new tracks in it’s effort to integrate this new smell into our olfactive experience. We are wired to quickly recognize specific smells as unsafe such as rotten food, burning plastic, human waste…etc. but other polarizing smells such as gasoline, sulfur, even body odors may deserve our attention in a less biased manner. Opening our minds to a more expanded smell palette only widens our enjoyment and appreciation of our daily life experience.

Animalics in perfume have been around since Antiquity. In Egypt, animalic notes ( fragrant materials that were originally sourced from animals), were used to embalm the body and communicate with the divine. Some were used for their curative virtues. Supposedly Cleopatra made perfumes with healing powers from the secretions of civet cats. During the Renaissance period, it was the upper class that partook of animalic scents which became a symbol for delineating high social status from the commoners. Animalic notes include but are not limited to the following (the fragrances listed in parentheses are examples of blends that highlight that specific animalic material) :

Musk (Musc Tonkin by Parfum d’Empire)

Musk was sourced from musk deer which are native to Asia. The material was thought to hold aphrodisiac powers. The species is now protected and the trade in animal musk has been prohibited. A synthetic musk is used for contemporary formulations.

Ambergris (Mxxx. by Eris)

One percent of Sperm Whales produce what is known as Ambergris. These whales have a waxy film that coats the inside of their intestines, protecting them from sharp squid beaks and cuttlefish. Once this excrement leaves the body, it is cured by the sunlight, oxygen and saltwater. The result is the most wonderful, warm and enveloping scent that adds fullness to a blend as well as serving as an excellent fixative.

Civet (Ella by Arquiste)

Civets are small, nocturnal animals that are found mostly in southeast Asia. They are not actually a cat but instead a cat like creature of the viverred family. Civet has been used for pain relief and as a sedative but in fragrance it used as both a fixative and a scent. In it’s full strength, civet can smell very fecal but diluted it is smooth, and can read as a radiant floral. 

Castoreum (Incense Rosé by Tauer)

The North American beaver secretes a fatty oil to protect it’s fur from cold and humidity. Castoreum gives off a fecal smell with strong nuances of leather and a slightly fruity aspect.

Hyraceum (Salome by Papillon)

The Hyrax are small mammals that are native mostly to Africa and the Middle East. Their habit is to defecate in the same location over generations which creates a rock like excrement that is a combination of both urine and feces sometimes referred to as African Stone. It is a deeply complex fermented scent that combines the elements of musk, castoreum, civet and agarwood. 

Beeswax (Bengale Rouge by Papillon)

The essence of beeswax absolute is used in perfumery to render golden-ambery notes, and it’s honeyed facets serve well as a middle or base note.

My personal collection includes an extensive variety of vintage fragrances. Many of these earlier fragrances were not shy about using animalics in their compositions to create multi-layered lushness and depth which many contemporary fragrances are challenged to match. The International Fragrance Association (IFRA), is an industry regulatory body that sets the standards for what can and cannot be used in perfumery today. Due to ethical issues, most animalics are not sourced from animals these days but are created synthetically. Among our selection at Fumerie, all of the fragrance houses have declared that they do not use animal testing in creating their fragrances and that they abide by the IFRA standards. Just as travel can broaden our perspective of the world, so can one’s curiosity around unfamiliar and polarizing smells enhance our world experientially and sensorially. Wishing you all abundant joy and pleasure in exploring the limitless possibilities of scent discovery.

Allow Me to Introduce Myself

Hello!

My name is Michael Whitby, and I am thrilled to be introducing myself to a community I have already cared deeply for as the new Manager of Fumerie Parfumerie!

I have had the great fortune of meeting quite a few exceptional folks in-store and online since I started here in September, and before I go any further into this post I want to say: THANK YOU! As a career retailer I have to convey that the community around Fumerie is comprised of the kindest, most genuine, intelligent, and enthusiastic individuals that have made me feel more appreciated for doing my job than I have ever felt in 15+ years of retail and management. Thank you all again for the warm welcome, and the opportunity to serve you!

I would like to take a moment to explain my enthusiasm for fragrance and how I ended up coming onboard here at Fumerie. My entire journey actually started right here! In the Fall of 2019 I was often using candles and incense to help myself self-soothe and center myself in practices I had learned in therapy, and I found myself wondering “why don’t I do this throughout my day as well, with a fragrance?” The answer in my mind was “well, because you hate ‘cologne’ and all of the things you’ve been previously compelled to buy for special events, etc.” That is when I started searching for non-gendered fragrance, and specifically for something that had leather and rose (not knowing at all that this is a somewhat common pairing in perfumery).

My searching on the internet immediately exposed me to a much broader world of fragrance than I would have even imagined existing, and eventually straight to a Portland fragrance house called Imaginary Authors- and what looked like my ideal fragrance in Slow Explosions. I spent a few minutes reading the notes and even starting to watch a video review when I realized that there must be somewhere in Portland to smell this stuff! I live in Portland after all! Lo and behold, I found a perfume boutique just down the street from me that I had never noticed in my 10+ years living in Southeast- Fumerie Parfumerie.

Reading all the 5-star reviews and positive feedback for Fumerie online did not sway my preconception- I had been in other perfume shops before and I knew their game. I knew when I went in to smell Slow Explosions, someone was going to try and spray me with something I didn’t ask to be sprayed with and someone would try to sell me something else more expensive. Long story short- I had no idea how wrong I could be. Having the great fortune of meeting Tracy on the day I came in so determined to try/ buy this bottle had me leaving with samples, and the most genuine sense of interest I had experienced since getting into music as a teenager.

At every stage of my deepening affection for the art of fragrance, I came back to Tracy and Lele to ask questions, and Fumerie just to enjoy myself and explore more. I found myself met with such honest fostering of interest in this space, that I never questioned my enthusiasm for this medium at any point of my journey. Less than 6 months later I had made up my mind that perfume was going to be my new medium as an artist, and when I expressed my timid interest in creating perfume to Tracy in the shop one day she spent a great deal of time with me smelling some isolates and ingredients she happened to have in the shop that day, answering my questions and not making me feel like I was crazy for wanting to learn such a complex art. Nobody made her be that kind or supportive, and that experience is exactly why I want to be in the position I am now- helping to maintain a level of genuine enthusiasm and commitment in this space, and to hopefully help change the industry standard for what it means to curate and sell fragrant art.

In the time since my introduction to this art form, I sold all of my music gear (my best friend and I moved here from Tucson 15 years ago to make music; he is now the Station Director at XRay FM) to buy perfume-making materials and tools just before COVID hit. As I worked in grocery at the time, I was so happy to have made the investment in a new expressive medium that could be explored without public performance. For those reading between the lines- the majority of my time as a fragrance enthusiast has coincided with the pandemic. This means that I have a pretty unconventional background in how I have explored as an enthusiast, but what I lack in time I have made up for in opportunity. I started buying more samples online and many more materials than I likely would have if I were going out to eat and seeing movies still! I have tried so many things from around the country and world, and now prioritize fragrance in all of my travels. What I love about fragrance as a medium- there will always be more to try, there will always be art lost to time/opportunity/geography, and there will always be something in any of it that is just for the person smelling.

In summation I want to make clear one vital point- I join this team not as an amateur perfumer, but as an art enthusiast and career retailer with a true passion for brick-and-mortar small business. I have managed in many other senses (literally)- record stores, book stores, and gourmet grocery. You can ask anyone who has interviewed or hired me in the last 15 years; I believe whole-heartedly that local and small businesses are a pillar of healthy communities. I also believe Fumerie is by far the model to be followed. I am humbled, happy, and as enthusiastic as I can be to join the team here at Fumerie. I promise to do my best by all of you, and look forward to our shared future as a community!

Thank you and Happy New Year 2023!

Fragrance Identities in 2020

Image by: Tom Barrett

Image by: Tom Barrett

When we begin to examine fragrance, it becomes apparent just how closely it is tied to our sense of identity. What do we offer up about ourselves when we apply our favorite fragrance in the morning? Or when we’re getting ready to go out at night? What fragrances do we gravitate toward when going through transitory stages in life? Are there specific smells and olfactive experiences that we will always associate with our sense of self? Questions we often hear at Fumerie can vary from “Does it smell too young/old for me?”, “Is it too masculine/feminine?”, and sometimes— in regards to niche fragrance— “Is it too weird?”. Now, as easy as it may be to respond with “That depends on your definition of masculinity/femininity” and “Sometimes weird is good”— often times deciding on whether or not a fragrance feels right on us is dependent on how we view ourselves in the first place.

Personally, I feel that woody and smoky fragrances are most reflective of my own identity. I am drawn to masculine, skewing towards androgynous, scents and I find more conventionally “feminine” scents don’t entice me as much. However, for someone else they wouldn’t feel quite like themselves without their signature soft floral fragrance. Although fragrance is it in its essence: unisex, collectively we are not immune to gender-geared marketing in fragrance. We can base our interests around our physical identities and that can often extend to our fragrance choices. Mx. from Eris Parfums is a great example of a fragrance that is inspired by identity. Made for all genders during a time of gender revolution, Mx. acknowledges this categorization in fragrance and leaves it behind. Mx. references identity in the more literal sense but there are many ways within the world of fragrance that we shape or reflect our identities. Relationships, jobs and our close circle of loved ones are definitely a factor in curating our scent-identities. Ultimately, your own preferences and insights on your scent are most important, as well as telling in regards to how you choose to be perceived.

Every January when the new year rolls around, we collectively look to build on our progress from the past year or for some, reinvent altogether. For fragrance lovers this may mean switching up a signature scent or seeking out a new one to better match a newfound identity. We may outgrow fragrances that inspired confidence in youth and find refuge in scents we once thought of as too mature. This olfactive journey looks different for everyone but it is undeniable that the right fragrance can embody an attitude, inspire confidence and offer reassurance. Often big life events like a change in career, a big move or the beginning/end to a relationship can inspire reinvention in the way we present ourselves. It’s frequent at Fumerie to go on a scent seeking journey with a customer that was motivated by one of these changes. Our connection to smell and ability to discern what truly speaks to us provides a wonderful opportunity to create an identity through fragrance. This identity speaks to the person we would like to be or who we feel we’ve always been. Going forward into this year what has shifted and what has stayed the same? What part of your identity are you looking forward to exploring through fragrance this year?

Wherever you’re headed, Fumerie hopes you’ll smell authentically you. Here’s to another year of discovering more fragrances and more about ourselves.

By Lele Faaleava

Mother's Day

photo by guille-pozzi/ unsplash

photo by guille-pozzi/ unsplash

My family moved to Eugene, Oregon when my brother’s and I were very young. For those of you that aren’t familiar, it’s a bit of a hippie town. Every few years the painted buses would roll into town and settle in on East 13th street in anticipation of the arrival of the Grateful Dead. Our family belonged to a co-op where we would get our tofu out of large tubs and grind our own peanut butter. On special evenings out, my beautiful mother attired in dress and heels, would envelop herself in the scent of soft amber and spice as she hugged me an early goodnight. As she did not typically include fragrance in her daily routine, the noticeable presence of perfume was enough to capture my attention and I enjoyed breathing in the captivating aroma. The scent that she wore was her own combination of oils self-blended at the local Essential Oils shop in town. Other than those small hand-labeled bottles of essential oils, I don’t recall my mom ever having what would traditionally be considered an actual bottle of perfume.

After graduating high school, I moved up North to Portland, Oregon which impressed me as being a big city. After all, Eugene had only one main bridge while Portland boasted a dozen. At the age of 25, I married into a family that owned a fragrance boutique that specialized in classic fragrance lines such as Guerlain, Caron and Jean Patou. It was a world that was completely foreign to me but I was intrigued, so much so that within a few years I left my other job and began working at The Perfume House full time. My husband at the time did his best to introduce me to the many fragrant options and varieties. Initially, nothing really spoke to me and I figured that maybe I simply had the type of skin that didn’t compliment fragrance. It wasn’t until we landed on a spicy, oriental scent that I recall being surprised at how intriguing and nuanced the right scent could be on skin ( for those curious, the fragrance was Secret de Venus by Worth). As I delved further into discovering my own personal tastes, I began sharing samples with my mom. She gravitated towards the vanilla and amber scents, which she wore beautifully.

My mother and I have always been close and I’m deeply grateful for the support and acceptance that she has consistently shown even in some of my more experimental phases. One example was my punk rock phase in which I spiked my hair and blared angry music, which my twin brother responded to by counter blasting Billy Joel and Supertramp (guess who won that particular music battle?). When I realized that the world of fragrance offered more than just a job or a minor passing interest, I took a deep dive into researching scent and collecting vintage fragrances that spoke to me. I found myself unable to walk past a fragrance counter without stopping and immersing myself in the array of endless scents. Even today I experience a flush of pleasure when entering a fragrance boutique, with the anticipation of scent exploration. As always, my mother responds to my interest with sincere curiosity and engagement. She asks many questions and we have had numerous in-depth conversations on the topic of perfume. During one visit, I brought along a book, Perfumes the A-Z Guide, by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez. I also brought a collection of samples for her to experience as I read to her the corresponding reviews that were notable for their remarkable descriptions and sly humor. My mom is an avid reader and found the book compelling and appreciated learning more about the world of fragrance in this manner. I’ve since gifted her the more recent edition of Perfumes the Guide, as well as several more samples for her to delve into and explore. Although she might not share the same passion for fragrance as I do, she is genuinely interested and always open to attaining more knowledge on the subject.

On my mother’s first visit to Fumerie, she expressed her delight through tears and wholehearted pride. She knows first-hand the profound challenges and adversity that I faced in realizing this dream, and I truly believe that her love and unwavering support throughout my life made it possible. My mother’s birthday is in August but she recently mentioned to me that she had fallen in love with the Jovoy fragrance Remember Me. Those that know me can attest that I tend to lack much in the way of patience, and I ended up gifting her the scent back in March in order for her to enjoy the scent now and throughout the year. It makes me happy to know

that she can spray this beautiful fragrance to her heart’s delight, and that she is experiencing the true pleasure of perfume. To my mom and all the mother’s out there, I unequivocally wish you a joyous and fragrant Mother’s Day!

Photos from the Aedes de Venustas Event

On November 2, 2017, olfactive director François Duquesne and perfumer Ralf Schwieger visited Fumerie Parfumerie to talk about Aedes de Venustas and perfumery in general. It's been about nine months since the event and I finally got around to editing the photos; I went ahead and chose the four best shots. Enjoy!

Fragrances for Spring

Spring has sprung! The days are getting longer and warmer (and, in some cases, wetter). It's time to put away those heavy winter fragrances and break out your fresh, green spring scents. In this spirit, we have compiled a list of our favorite spring fragrances. Enjoy!

PÉNG LÁI  Berdoues: Collection Grands Crus
Osmanthus is a bit of a shapeshifter: sometimes it's fruity and apricot-like while at other times it is earthy and hay-like. In Péng Lái, it's the former—a gorgeous, sparkling osmanthus composition that highlights the bright, fruity facets of this fascinating raw material. Named for the legendary land of Chinese mythology, Péng Lái is a delicately fruity osmanthus composition that smells at once vibrant and subdued. The combination of the apricot-like fruitiness of the osmanthus and the warm, resinous vanilla-like aroma of benzoin produces an interesting effect: a delicate, almost edible warmth that radiates off the skin. The tonka bean reinforces the warmth of the benzoin and augments the hay-like nuances of the osmanthus. Sparkling and effervescent, Péng Lái is the perfect choice for a spring fragrance.

FLORALUST  Agonist
Floralust strikes with such immediacy, it can be a bit disorienting at first. In a world full of uninspired, wan florals, Agonist's magnolia-centric composition reminds us just how moving a truly great floral fragrance can be. Needless to say, I am quite fond of Floralust—in fact, I have been since I first encountered the fragrance last year. In addition to being utterly gorgeous, Floralust is perfect for springtime wear. It embodies all of the hope and rebirth of springtime with its delicate green tones and sweet white floral notes and achieves the perfect balance of frivolity and gravitas.

MONSERRAT  Bruno Fazzolari
It is hard to find a challenging fruity floral fragrance. Indeed, fragrances in this family typically convey a sort of carefree elegance that seems almost antithetical to difficult or demanding structures. Monserrat is one of the few exceptions to this rule: a complex and intricately composed fruity floral that always has something new and exciting to share. Inspired by the burnished colors of classical Italian frescos, Monserrat is built around a core of delicate osmanthus and sweet jasmine. The apricot-like qualities of the osmanthus are augmented by the addition of apricot and the citrusy zing of grapefruit. So, the basic ingredients for a fruity floral fragrance are in place and had Monserrat stopped there, it would have been a fine fragrance; instead, Bruno Fazzolari added an inspired twist: the rooty, chalky, parched aroma of carrot seed and a "setting plaster" accord. These peculiar aromas offset the sweetness of the central composition and help to make Monserrat one of the best fruity floral fragrances currently on the market.

AEDES DE VENUSTAS  Aedes de Venustas
When I first encountered Aedes de Venustas' signature fragrance, I was impressed with the hyper-literal rendering of the tomato leaf and rhubarb accords. Subsequent wearings have led to a deeper appreciation for the underlying structure and its ability to transform based on the angle of observation—like one of those drawings containing both an old woman and a young lady. Sometimes it smells like digging in a garden and at other times, it smells like fir trees in the dead of winter. Over the years, perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour has become a master of modern chypres, composing around the empty spaces left by IFRA and EU regulations. Duchaufour fleshes out the greenery with earthy vetiver and an almost liturgical incense—in typical Duchaufour style, the composition is sparse and airy, leaving plenty of room for meditation and quite contemplation.

ICHNUSA  Profumum Roma
At certain concentrations, green notes can take on an almost petrol-like quality. I always enjoy fragrances that achieve this olfactory illusion if for no other reason than the fact that this particular combination of fresh-cut grass, gasoline, old wood and crushed leaves reminds me of the old toolshed where my grandfather kept his tools—along with a canister of gasoline. Ichnusa is one such fragrance. Opening with an intense burst of green notes, Ichnusa slowly opens to reveal a multifaceted tapestry of earthy notes. The fragrance hits several octaves at once, from the earthy hum of mulch and wet hay to the crisp high notes of fig leaf and myrtle.

PÉLARGONIUM  Aedes de Venustas
Aedes de Venustas Pélargonium is, at the time of writing, the newest addition to the line. Composed by Nathalie Feisthauer, Pélargonium is an ode to its namesake, Pelargonium graveolens: a specific cultivar of geranium with a unique rosy aroma. Unlike most flowers, the source of geranium oil is not the blossoms but rather the leaves of the plant. Feisthauer deftly accents the central geranium note, which she describes as “aromatic, with a crushed-leaf facet, less fruity and more balsamic than rose, almost incense-like," with cool, silvery orris and aromatic cedar. The earthy facets of the material are augmented by the addition of Haitian vetiver and oakmoss while the lemony-peppery facets of elemi enhance the fresh and balsamic facets of the geranium. The resulting composition is a tour-de-force of aromatic woods, suffused with the citrusy zing of bergamot—a perfect choice for springtime in the Pacific Northwest.

L'EAU  Tauer
Andy Tauer is not a fan of convention. A few years ago, when he first delved into fresh fragrances with Cologne du Maghreb, he put his own spin on the classic cologne structure. His most recent release, L'Eau is no different. This time around, we find Tauer approaching fresh fragrances from a different angle. Inspired by a blooming lemon tree on his estate, L'Eau is an attempt to translate fresh citrus notes into an eau de parfum. The result is both delicate and beautiful: a shimmering floral with citrus accents. The central theme is, of course, lemon blossom, a seldom-used material that is lighter and tangier than orange blossom with an odor profile close to neroli. A cool, rooty orris provides body, while a musky woody base rounds out the composition. The resulting fragrance is fresh and citrusy—it delicately shimmers in the light and suffuses the wearer in a gauzy, musky-floral haze.