Last month, Anthony Alvarado from XRay FM radio interviewed me for his show Find the Others regarding the world of scent and more specifically the Fumerie experience. I enjoyed walking him through a variety of facets of the history, artistry, and inspiration of niche fragrance. I took pleasure in Anthony's curiosity and delight in acquainting himself with the world of artful fragrance, and truly hope you enjoy the listen!
Give the interview a listen here
Fumerie has turned seven years old, and to celebrate we decided to have a giveaway that celebrates the spirit of our boutique space, the desire to represent fragrant art, and our lovely community. We asked our customers to write us a fragrant memory associated with Fumerie to be entered into a raffle to win a bottle of the luxurious Idole by Lubin (which Lubin so graciously donated to us for this cause, and to celebrate our years of working together). Your willingness to share your fond memories humbled us and touched our hearts, thank you!
Below you will find the (over sixty!) stories and memories of our community as they were submitted to us. We hope they serve as interesting and fun, as well as a time capsule for the last seven years in our little corner of the world of fine fragrance. We hope that if you haven’t yet had one of these memories with us, that you will soon! Using our free online consultation service or stopping by our boutique would certainly be an opportunity to create your own fragrant experience and memories.
“I had only had experiences with department store perfumes prior to Fumerie. I remember learning about woody and warm notes from Tracy and how special some small producers are. Remember Me was a treat and Oriento an early purchase that is still a favorite! Every trip down to Fumerie makes a special memory!”
- Jill W.
“It's hard to think of just one amazing memory, as every time I come into the shop, I feel the warmth and welcome to celebrate and explore the artwork that fragrances can be. However, I think a shining moment was several years ago, when I arrived rudely early for a Tauer event where Andy would be speaking. When I arrived, I was surprised to see not only Tracy setting up shop, but Andy Tauer himself getting in your way, talking up a storm. You more-or-less planted him in front of me with a bottle of Hyacinth and a Mechanic and then moved along to finish setting up for the event. I got nearly an hour of one-on-one time talking fragrance with Andy Tauer, a dream for me as a lover of his work, and a blessing for my deeply introverted soul! It was an amazing experience, and hopefully you were able to do what you needed to do, too, before the festivities began. Congratulations on 7 years! Here's to many more!”
- Marjorie H.
“When I was reading Tarot at the now-defunct Secret Forest across the street I'd often stop in to chat with Tracy and experience new fragrances. She always has time for everyone; one never feels rushed or pressured to buy. She has been generous with samples, too. Tracy is wonderful! She even remembers that I don't drink wine, and has grapefruit seltzer for me at the special events, which I appreciate enormously! I also enjoyed Luca Turin's talks at Fumerie very much. He is a delight -- pulls no punches and is extremely entertaining as well as knowledgeable. The book he and his wife, Tania Sanchez, wrote helped me narrow down which of the thousands of perfumes on the market today might be worth trying, and led me to discover my favorites: Tauer's Au Coeur du Desert and Ormonde Jayne's Ormonde Woman. Which I buy at Fumerie. “
- S.C.
“My husband found your shop listed in a perfume magazine he received and wanted to stop by to see for himself when we were visiting my parents in Vancouver, WA. I remember feeling as if I had entered a treasure chest filled with exciting and new things to discover. I wasn’t disappointed- not only did I find some of my favorite lines which you carried, you generously helped me learned and explore similar, but different, options to my favorites. Fumerie is one of those places I recommend friends to visit when looking for something extraordinary. Congratulations on your anniversary!”
- Stacey N.
“My memory of your shop is when I was starting in my fragrant journey 7-8 years ago and was looking for interesting things to try. Your team recommended I explore Slumberhouse and a new love was born - this was so unique and different from everything else I have smelled.”
-Marianna K.
“Stumbling across your store with my then seven-year-old son (who is now twelve). He was confused about why we weren’t going to Atlas Pizza. Then having him welcomed in the store and having him share his impressions of five scents. “That one smells like the backyard.” I wish I remembered what it was, but I was hooked — and I’ve come back many times ever since.”
- Pauls T.
“This is not so much one memory but kind of a composite impression of all the times I’ve made an impulse stop in the middle of a stressful workday. It’s such a treat to walk into the calming atmosphere of the shop and see Tracy and Michael’s smiles behind the counter. I love the moment when I open the door and the cloud of fragrance wraps around me and pulls me in. Often there are interesting strangers with similar proclivities to share notes with, and always something new to learn. Fun conversation and laughter ensues. Then, with lovely fragrance treasure in hand, I stumble back out onto the street rejuvenated, ready to meet the next challenge smelling like a rose!”
- Delinda F.
“Two years ago I was so excited to visit “The Fumerie” as I have been following Tracy’s blog and emails.
We were heading to the Portland airport after a vacation at Cannon Beach. My husband drove to your store and I was having heart palpitations. He said how much money do you need as he said $100.00 dollars should be enough right? I gave him my famous look and pout and said just forget it let’s head to the airport.
We flew back home to Pittsburgh during a very quiet flight, as I was still pouting. We got home and my husband finally broke down, so he got me a ticket to fly back to Portland the next week by myself just for the day (5 hours on the ground) just to visit your store.
A week later I was at your store again heart fluttering ready to go in. I went in and there were a few customers so I sat down and took your store in. WOW….I was in heaven. Not sure if the pup there was the store mascot but I gave him some loving while waiting my turn. My turn came up and I got to meet Tracy. She was so gracious and made me feel comfortable as she took her time with me. I already had some things written down on what I wanted to smell. She also showed me some other fragrances which had the same notes or the same perfumers. I purchased two lovely fragrances and she also gave me a few samples to also play with when I got home.
When I tell folks about my trip they say “really?,” but I tell them it was a dream of mine to visit your store.
On our trip last year to Cannon Beach, guess where we stopped on the way home? My husband actually came in and was impressed by the volume of scents and the cool atmosphere. Of course we are coming back this October for now my annual visit to see the great Tracy and use her nose and expertise to get another fine niche frag (or two or three) I’m a new lifelong fan!”
- Shirley R.
“When researching Portland as a place to move after leaving the military, I came across a film of the Division street area by monocle magazine where Fumerie was highlighted. My husband and I decided Fumerie was a must see and visited on our research trip- I’m not saying we moved to Portland because of Fumerie, but we were blown away by your store and the specialist who helped us (tracing the career by memory of Edmond Roudnitska) and it was definitely in the back of our minds when we made our decision!”
- Lisa Y.
“I travel through Portland 2-4 times a year on a very long road trip. One stop at Fumerie was after 7 hours in a car. I was a mess, however that did not seem to affect who I was greeted. I was asked what I might be looking for. I remember being shown several fragrances along those lines. I was not rushed. It was almost like I had the shop to myself. I could really take my time and sniff, look and ponder. Money for perfume on a school teacher's salary is rare and I appreciated the help, time, and peace in order to make my selection. My sister had gone shopping down the street and it was fine for me to sit in a corner and look at perfume books while I waited for her. I love the calm, less crowded and knowledgeable help. And I love the Ormonde Jayne Tolu I ended up buying. I wish I lived closer!”
- Shelly W.
“My Scent Memory of Lubin’s Korrigan is that of how I imagine the Snoqualime Lodge in Twin Peaks. A burst of fall apples, balsamic juniper and cedar, warm whiskey and a buttery leather accord..there I sit by the fire in that chair, spellbound”
- Mindy G.
“I bring my kids to the shop every year to buy fragrances for Fathers day. Each kiddo picks something they like. Tracy always makes this "picking out" process so easy and fun. And after pulling 50 bottles, clearly amazing patience!”
- Erin J.
“The year was 2018, I believe, when I first set foot in Fumerie Parfumerie. About a year or so before I had just started to explore the world of creative niche perfumery and was quite excited to learn about the presence of a few perfume shops here in Oregon, albeit still quite a drive from Central Oregon. Still, I decided to take advantage of a visit to some relatives in Eugene and made it my mission to make the trek up to Portland after spending some time with them. My plan was to peruse fragrances at Fumerie, and possibly one or two other shops depending on the time I had available.
From the outside, this charming shop looks quite unassuming apart from the ornate lettering of the Fumerie sign, but upon entering the door you know this is no ordinary store. The sensation is akin to stepping back in time into an antique apothecary, a mesmerizing world replete with shelves full of strange, magical olfactory potions housed in ornate bottles. Your nose just quivers in anticipation to unlock the power of each fragrant creation. Yet, I was struck most of all by Tracy, the heart and soul behind Fumerie Parfumerie, a person brimming with warmth, intelligence, and love for all who entered. It was an incredible joy speaking with someone exuding such passion for the art of perfumery. I can't recall the first fragrances I asked to sniff, but Tracy tirelessly obliged my curiosity in sampling everything that interested me. This was truly my first time experiencing many works I had only just read about. Time seemingly stopped as bottles of Jovoy, Masque Milano, Jeroboam, Bruno Fazzollari, Tauer, Ormonde Jayne, Profumum Roma, and many others were brought out. At any time, I had countless tester strips before me as I embarked on amazing scent journeys to realms previously unknown. All the while, the minutes, then the hours imperceptibly ticked by. I was totally enthralled and delighted. Every now and then other people would come in to sniff fragrances or purchase bottles, and Tracy treated everyone with incredible love and a casual, yet professional, knowledgeable demeanor. The highlight of my first visit to Fumerie was when Tracy was kind enough to let me smell some legendary creations, some of which are no longer in production I believe.
It was with great difficulty that I finally concluded my amazing first visit to Fumerie. I discovered I had no time left to visit the other shops in Portland. For people in love with the world of fragrances, it is entirely too easy to spend countless hours at this charming location. Fortunately, I was able to somewhat prolong this wonderful experience by purchasing several samples to take home with me. Since then, I have truly been wanting to return to Fumerie Parfumerie. It'll definitely be one of the first stops on my list whenever I go to Portland.
Congratulations Tracy on your boutique's seven-year anniversary! Wishing you and everyone there all the best and many more years sharing the love of niche perfumery with those of us in Oregon and beyond! Thanks so much for the chance.”
-Eirik H.
“My fiancé Shaun and I visited the Fumerie in November 2022 to choose a bottle for our 13th anniversary. Our host was most welcoming and engaged us in lively conversation that spanned not only the wonderful niche fragrances on offer but our own experiences and thoughts about fragrance. As we sat at the cozy bar with at least thirty scents laid out before us, Shaun and I discovered a mutual love for unusual and indefinable fragrances. We had been collecting perfumes for a few years prior and knew that we both enjoyed bold, individualistic scents, however, we found ourselves in an environment where requesting notes of gasoline and mushroom were taken in stride with several selections quickly pulled for our consideration.
Fumerie introduced us to both old and new makers that we had not had the privilege to sample previously, and we discovered unique profiles that we could not have imagined, like the standout Nuit de Bakelite and our anniversary purchase, Meo Fuschini's 2# Nota di Viaggio (shukran...), two of our current favorites that are worn frequently and with passionate abandon.
During our conversation with our host, I shared my background as a chef and my current career as an environmental scientist. I've been interested in creating my own 'green' accords as there are endless profiles I've encountered in nature that have yet to be captured in a bottle.
Our host shared his own experiences in creating fragrances which inspired me to invest in a still and some basic perfuming supplies. I've been enjoying blending, aging, and creating oils, hydrosols, and compounds from local flora, and can credit our host's warm and unpretentious introduction into fine niche perfumery as an introduction to a pursuit I'll continue to enjoy throughout my life.
Thank you, Fumerie, for the wonderful memories, unforgettable sensory introductions, and boundless enthusiasm for all things fragrant.”
- Rayna K.
“The many houses Fumerie introduced me to that I would otherwise be sadly unaware of.”
- Blake
“Meeting up with a special perfume friend for a cool spring morning of sniffing at the shop, chatting with Tracy and each picking out a bottle to take home.”
- Tara C.
“When I walked past for the first time & saw the beautiful dried flowers hanging in the window, and they inspired me to hang my own above my bed. Rose is my favorite fragrance after all.”
- Zadie
“The very first time I perused fumerie.com, I was like a kid in a proverbial good smelling candy shop! A friend mentioned that Fumerie sells samples of niche fragrances, and if I were lucky, Slumberhouse makes a guest appearance when they are released. My first purchase was samples of Scents of Wood. I’ve already tried Plum in Cognac, which is a masterpiece, but these little cute samples are used after a nice shower or for a quick mood enhancer! Ever since I became aware of Fumerie, I check it every day in case Slumberhouse makes an unannounced release! It has become a daily ritual! I intend to visit Fumerie if I am ever in the Portland area!”
- Percy K.
“I remember visiting Fumerie for the first time and being amazed by the beautiful store and incredible selection. What stood out to me most, though, was Tracy's warmth and the generosity with which she shared her wealth of knowledge. I came away with fragrances that were new to me but have now become treasured fragrances. And I'm excited to visit the store again in a couple of weeks to see what new treasures await me! Thank you Tracy!”
- Lesli C.
“I began my fragrance journey about a year ago, but I have always been a very keen lover of scent. The town I go to university in has no dedicated fragrance spots, so I was thrilled to discover Fumerie on a trip back to Portland (my beloved hometown) over winter break. I came in with my younger brother, who has also just begun diving into fragrance. We were absolutely blown away by the sheer number of fragrances in the store! It quickly became clear that we had a lot to learn (in the most exciting way!). We purchased the fall sampler set and have had a blast smelling them and comparing notes. As broke college kids, it was exhilarating to smell some of the perfumes we drool over but cannot yet afford. We had such a magical experience at Fumerie, and I always recommend it to fellow PDX perfume lovers. Thanks for all that you do!”
- Helen P.
“It was just last fall. I was feeling a little lost and sad. I knew nothing about fragrance. I walked in and was greeted warmly. I sat next to a lovely woman and we kept sharing smells and likes. I never knew about niche. I only knew about “mall” fragrance. So 6 months later I’ve learned so much. I know designer, niche, indie. I know what I like. It all started at Fumerie. I found comfort in fragrance.”
- Courtney L.
“I first walked into Fumerie the summer before I moved to California for college. My attempt to prepare for adulthood by finding a signature scent may have been ambitious, but the quest ended up consuming my summer and revealing my passion for fine fragrance. I was introduced to Grisette by Lubin at Fumerie and the search was over. I have now graduated college, moved to Chicago, and recently I've accepted a position working for a fragrance manufacturing company. My fragrance collection has expanded, however, I still have and adore my bottle of Grisette, a truly unique rose scent that is feminine, playful and smells of fresh independence. Fumerie ignited a passion in me that continues to burn bright and I will always be grateful.”
- Meredith N.
“Just missing out on the surprise drop of the future unicorn and HIGHLY desired Black Grev from Slumberhouse and thinking I would never be able to obtain it. Ever. Then I sent you an email asking that if there was any left over (I had no hope really but figured I would take a shot) I would love to purchase it. A couple days later getting an email saying there were two bottles that were no longer spoken for and I was the second person to ask, and that it now one had my name on it. No words can describe the joy I received from that email. Thank you again from the bottom of my heart and congrats on 7 years!!!”
- Travis W.
“After spending a year anxiously hunting Slumberhouse perfumes, another Fumerie loyalist filled me in on the email list. When Black Grev released, I got an email as soon as it released and bought a bottle on the spot. It was the first time I managed to avoid the stress and disappointment of finding out about a release only after it sold out.”
- Ryan J.
“I have had so many delightful experiences with Fumerie Parfumerie, which includes most recently the sampling of Quartana (Hemlock) for my 86 year old mother. It was absolutely heart-warming as I loved how her eyes lit up when I gave her the sample to try. Presently, we are experiencing a rapid decline of my father's health (her husband of 67 years) and this little gift was perfect to give as a slight pause from our circumstances. My mom is extremely particular about scent and not quick to purchase; however this little 'joy in a bottle' created a wonderful engaging moment for us.”
- Susan S.
“The last time I saw my friend Sarah, we were having wine at Division Wine with her mother. We walked down to Fumerie to indulge our senses and treat ourselves. As we arrived, Sarah's mother pulled me aside and told me not to tell Sarah, but she had lost her sense of smell and would I help her "put on a good show" as we explored the fragrances? We proceeded to have a delightful guided tour of so many amazing fragrances and I regret I do not remember the name of the wonderful individual who assisted us, but their vivid descriptions of each fragrance helped Sarah's mom conjure in her mind what it must smell like. Even though she could not actually smell any of them, she would remark "oh, the peach - I love the smell of peach" or "the smell of a forest after rain - that is always such a wonderful smell". Her experience was one of imagination and recollection based on the excellent descriptions provided by the Fumerie team member. Sarah's mother reminded me that fragrance lives in the mind as well as in our olfactory. This memory will always make me smile - it was a wonderful afternoon.”
- Lesley D.
“My first time at Fumerie is my fondest memory there. It was a rainy morning in January and I was set to meet my friend there at the at 11am. I remember when I first opened the door there was a burst of a pleasant mixture of scents shadowed by the library-like shelf of perfumes in the background where a woman in a white button up shirt and black vest was arranging bottles. I felt like I was in a quaint little shop out of a story book.
As I walked in I was greeted warmly and we introduced ourselves. I took a seat at the counter and was prompted to tell her what scent profiles I’m most into, then she began to pull an array of bottles from the shelf. I took my time and smelled each one and was so surprised that I liked almost every single one! I had been so used to the impersonal mall fragrance shopping experience where I always left with my usual perfume because I never liked anything else. This experience and the knowledge from the passionate people working there opened up a whole new world of fragrance for me as I’ve never been a fan of shopping for perfume online either. My friend finally arrived and she also sampled an assortment of fragrances. We had so much fun sniffing away that we didn’t even realize two hours had gone by! It was tough but we finally decided on which perfumes to purchase. I left happy and with a new obsession that day. I haven’t stopped raving about it since.”
- Theresa L.
“When I first started getting into fragrances over five years ago a friend if mine had a sample of Tauer 02. He had talked about the Fumerie so I ventured to the Fumerie and met the amazing owner Tracy and purchased my very first niche bottle of Tauer 02. I will often stop by to purchase something or just spend time learning about notes from Tracy. All of my memories have been positive.”
- Drew W.
“I’m honored to discover your wonderful perfume store and start my collection of Slumberhouse from my first bottle that I ever got from you. I’ve been following your wonderful store since then and can’t wait to visit you some time soon in person. Your store is one of the reasons I’d want to come to Portland. Thank you! Happy anniversary!”
- Margarita E.
“I have a wonderful memory of coming in on a cold winter evening to listen to Luca Turin speak about fragrance. I am quiet and don't go many places by myself, but this time I did. As soon as I entered the shop, I was whisked into a series of conversations with wonderful people who all seemed to know each other, but as it turned out, they didn't, they just were lovely and excited and in love with scent. Luca was wonderful, of course, and I cherish my signed book. Something shifted that night and I love perfumes and talking about them even more than before.”
- Jackie A.
“Even before I read to the end of the email announcing your anniversary, I was thinking, Fumerie really is one of my favorite shops in Portland that I’d recommend to any visitor. It’s classy and yet you always give people in the shop all the time in the world to smell everything. I love that you gave me and my niece and sister the tip to smell a bit of skin between sniffs. So unassuming and real, and I’m glad to have the coffee bean thing debunked. My young niece and I like to visit perfume places together. She was overseas in Belgium as an exchange student and she brought me a gift of samples from a parfumerie there. We visited your shop when she was here. You were so patient and unaffected about letting us see what we liked and answering her questions (she wanted to know about how long perfumes could last and you explained to her how to store them and still enjoy them by rotating them out). You hosted a sweet book party one summer eve and I remember being struck by how cool and interesting all the people in the shop were. Every time I go in, there are both men and women sampling and shopping. It’s pleasing to have such a welcoming place to learn about and find such nice things.”
- Briana M.
“I remember first stepping foot into Fumerie years ago when I had just turned 22. I had always been meticulously utilitarian in my expenses up to that point and I entered this space with the intention to finally treat myself to something decadent as an adult. I was greeted by Fumerie's warm and illustrious owner who took me on an olfactory tour through many many samples after hearing about my favorite scents and sensory experiences. I knew immediately when the one had been found. I made my most hallowed purchase and have worn that scent every special or not so special occasion since to remind myself to enjoy life's beauty. All of my friends have heard my rave reviews of the store and most of all the woman behind the counter that made me feel seen and cared for in such a personally profound moment. Thank you!'“
- Devon R.
“My first “adult” fragrance was an unexpected gift from my dad. The perfume was Diva by Emanuel Ungaro. It was spicy and made me feel invincible. When I asked dad why this particular perfume, he said he wanted me to know I was the best and to never settle. Since then, I’ve always had a special fragrance - a combination of layered scents that make me feel like me, and feel like the scent was created only for me. Visits with Fumerie allows me to reclaim that first experience with perfume and I know I’m in the right place to discover another unique way to express who I am.”
- Greta G.
“My memory is from November 2022, the only time I've visited the store (I live in British Columbia) and Michael spending close to an hour with me and letting me smell dozens of perfumes. I walked away with about a lot of decants. It was such a lovely experience with the way the store looked, the ambiance, and all the lovely smells. I took a number of pictures and occasionally look back at them fondly.”
- Nicholas M.
“I stumbled into Fumerie, shortly after I moved to Portland while Christmas shopping. I was so excited to talk with Michael who was passionate and friendly. I have attended two events- the Scents of Wood event and Fragrance Swap 8, and I told my partner I feel like "I have found my church." It's thrilling to meet people who share an enthusiasm for discovering new fragrances. Thank you, Tracy, for creating a lovely shop and community space.”
- Traci M.
“At the event where Andy came to premiere Au Coeur du Désert, I purchased my first Tauer perfume ever: the original L'Air du Desert Marocain, which I'd always loved. Andy was signing bottles, and when I asked him to sign mine, I think maybe he was a little bummed that I didn't like the new Au Coeur since I wasn't buying that one instead. But I did! I just liked L'Air even more. Anyway, Andy was super nice and it was a great event.”
- Joshua B.
“Love coming to the boutique with my friend Renea. We step up to "the bar" and sniff until our hearts are content. Always have great catch-up chats with Tracy and step away with a glorious bottle of something delicious!”
- Diane D.
“I came into the store with several people already sitting at the counter. I smelled fragrances that I had chosen, then started talking with the other people at the counter and smelling the fragrances they had chosen. The mutual conversation and discovery with fellow fragrance enthusiasts was very enjoyable. And I left with a sample of something that I normally would have never tried because they were smelling and testing it and loved it. Now I love it, too!”
- Erin P.
“My positive memory is actually buying my first bottle of perfume at Fumerie! My dad was really sensitive to fragrances growing up, so I never experimented with it when I was younger. I didn’t really know where to start with perfume but I knew I didn’t want a big name fragrance, so I researched and found Fumerie. I came in and sniffed lots of samples, and chatted with the lady behind the counter about what I wanted and ended up with Imaginary Author’s Memoirs of a Trespasser. Now I want all the perfumes, and love to come in to grab samples and get new suggestions!”
- Lexie B.
“I came in once and there was a woman sitting alone with probably 10+ different bottles in front of her. She looked so happy and like she was having the best time ever. She invited me over to smell Poets of Berlin with her so we could decide if that's what David Bowie smelled like.”
- Alia D.
“I greatly enjoyed the early in-house events involving the materials used in perfumery. They gave me a chance to experience many of the notes I had only read about in descriptions of fragrances. I mean, how many chances does anyone have to actually smell whale vomit? The in-house events also brought together a very diverse group of people united by their love of fragrances in a space that celebrates that love.”
- Chad H.
“A slow walk down division street on a sunny day brought me into Fumerie a few summers back. I didn’t know what to expect. Walking into this little gem, within the first ten minutes, I was wafting little samples of the most incredible smells I’ve ever encountered. My daughter, who was with me, is also a scent lover. The gentleman at the counter asked if she wanted to smell something like “blueberries”. He passed her a small sample of the smell and her eyes rolled back in delight, saying “can I eat it?” She loved the smell. And so did I. Now we both wear this special scent. Thank you for the forever memory, and this delicious perfume.”
- Lana V.
“A dear friend (and my only friend who is also truly a fragrance enthusiast) was visiting me from the Midwest where I'm originally from. I live in Seattle but love Portland so we took a day trip there. We both new Fumerie was on the top of our list of spots to visit. I'd been several times before but it was magical going with him and sampling all the fragrances we've discussed and dreamed about. The staff let us have a field day and enjoy ourselves. We made purchases but by no means are extravagant spenders. I think one of the things that makes Fumerie so special is the focus is on the magic of niche perfume and not sales goals. A day I'll never forget!”
-Kyle T.
“Best memory would be my first time going to Fumerie. I had been talking to my friends about wanting a signature scent and looking into perfumes. Then later that day while on the way to Artifact, lo and behold there's Fumerie! It felt like the universe had heard my request and delivered. Went in and left with Jeroboam Origino.”
- Adriana A.
“It was probably right around the time you opened, when my young daughter and I were waking by and decided to stop in. Many months prior, I had smelled a fragrance on a customer at my place of business- one that I instantly fell in love with. I followed this particular customer around my store, trying to decide if it would be appropriate to tell her how lovely she smelled and ask her what she was wearing. She was eager to tell me it was called Molecule 01. Not having ever really experienced in person perfume shopping, I was a bit gun shy and slightly intimidated to inquire whether Molecule 01 was a fragrance you carried. I didn’t want to insult. I was so thrilled to discover that you did. You were so lovely, and happily offered me a sample tube, which I actually still have. It’s long since been emptied but amazingly, still holds its scent. My budget at the time did not allow me to purchase a bottle, but you treated me just as kindly, as if I were a paying customer. Thank you for that.”
- Amy M.
“First experience was with mom and we had a lovely time. I had just started my wine education class and so we were sampling perfumes and describing the notes. It was special because my mom was visiting and loves perfume. It was a moment I will always treasure.”
- Kimberley D.
“I will always remember the first day I visited Fumerie. A coworker who knew I liked fragrance recommended a new perfume shop for me to check out. To my surprise, it was close to my home and when I walked through the doors I saw a familiar face, Tracy, who had helped me with several amazing fragrances at another local perfume shop. I was so excited to see she had opened her own business and have been shopping with her ever since.”
- Faye G.
“My favorite perfume day, and the day I happily associate with Fumerie and Tracy, was a crisp, sunny late fall morning in Portland over 6 years ago. I excitedly drove to my first, official perfume event. The experience felt surreal because I couldn't imagine people like me; people wildly, deeply excited by perfume and everything associated with it (instead of those that merely tolerated my hobby or thought it was strange). It didn't take long before I was talking and laughing with people who shared that passion. People that loved talking about patchouli and how it can get chocolatey or wet and earthy, that liked the smell of moss, that appreciate a skanky civet note (that know what civet smells like), that unabashedly love rose/olibanum/gardenia etc; I FOUND MY PEOPLE. It wasn't long before we landed in front of the counter at Fumerie. Greeted by Tracy's smile and dozens upon dozens of fragrances, the group wasted no time. The energy of our group amped up as we all began spraying and testing, all the while talking, laughing and breathing perfume, perfume, perfume! I remember laughing to myself because no doubt we could be heard from the street but any curious potential patrons could literally not fit into her shop and potentially risk hearing damage because the level of our voices kept rising with every new bottle she brought out to test.
The smell of Fumerie sticks in my head always. The amalgamation of deep base notes and sharp green top notes and the warm heart notes of hundreds of fragrances. That smell is intoxicating to me and I associate it with joy, with connection and discovery.
Thank you Fumerie, and thank you Tracy for many years of happy scented discoveries and friendships bonded over scented memories!”
- Anna V.
“Ever since I was younger I always loved to smell great. I never knew I was missing a whole world of fragrance until I visited Fumerie. My boyfriend and I decided to celebrate our 8th anniversary in Portland and he said we had to stop by Fumerie. I was excited but did not expect to be blown away. When we first arrived I was nervous because it was a cute shop with fragrances I have never heard of. When we went inside we were greeted by Tracy and she was welcoming and extremely knowledgeable. She shared her knowledge with us and answered any and all questions with such a pleasant response. Not once did she show that she was annoyed with us or the questions we had. We ended up taking two fragrances home that day and since then we have collected over 25 fragrances from Tracy. Thank you for sharing your wonderful shop, your vast knowledge, and for being a warm personality in a dark world.”
- Madison G.
Here we are in March, and I am just getting around to writing about my favorite fragrances of 2022. After the holidays we really wanted to focus on our website, starting our free online consultations, and planning some events for 2023- so here we are! I’m happy to have the opportunity to share some of my feeling about the things I explored and loved in 2022. Not everything on this list was released in 2022, but would have been new to me regardless of the year is was released.
I would say my taste in fragrance is not bound by genre, though I do have my favorites. The main thing that draws me to a fragrance is that is exciting! Sometimes that comes by way of artful composition/ storytelling, other times it is out of genre experimentation and originality, and sometimes it’s just because something is so surprisingly pleasant. Please find below some of my favorites that I tried for the first time in 2022. As always feel free to email us if you have any questions about anything on this list or otherwise!
MY FAVORITES OF 2022
Varanasi • Meo Fusciuni - Few fragrances have the effect on me that this one did. It is truly unique and devastatingly well done. The notes listed for this fragrance are like a greatest hits of all of my favorite notes: saffron, nutmeg, cardamom, incense, amber, jasmine, rose, ambrette, cypriol, spikenard, vetiver, oud, gurjum, leather, and animalics (if I had to guess I would say civet mainly). The opening of this fragrance (which to me is beautiful and captivating) is about as bold as they come, and can turn some folks off to it because of this fact- but the drydown is pure magic. The complexity and evolution of this fragrance is astounding. As it explores all of the fantastic notes listed, it slowly but surely arrives at it’s final destination which is simply one of the best leathers I have ever worn. The leather is soft, clean, and addictive. I always love when a fragrance gives me a scent memory, and in this case I was absolutely transported! The opening notes reminded me of my grandparents garage/ workspace with a pleasant mustiness and a sweet motor-oil like vibe. Artful, inventive, refined, and elegant- an absolute favorite of mine; not just of this year but of anything I have tried to this day.
La Ravissante • MDCI- I know I am not alone in my love for this fragrance as I have personally seen positive reactions to it from everyone I have shown it to- regardless of their normally preferred genres or if what they are shopping for is wildly different. When looking at the notes I would never guess that this would be something I would love as much as I do, especially because it has a few notes I don’t normally gravitate towards (marshmallow, marine notes). Some of the best parts of this fragrance come from these very notes! The way this fragrance plays with genre and creatively dances around as it dries down led me to wear this probably more than anything in 2022, despite it being released close to the end of the year. The opening is a delicious bouquet of florals and fruits, and the dry-down is a genre-bending masterpiece that is equal parts pleasant, comforting, and playful. I don’t want to give too much away by continuing to describe it as it is simply delightful to explore! This is one of two perfumes made by Bertrand Duchaufour that made this list.
Dincanto • Profumum Roma- Profumum Roma is an exceptional house, but in my opinion they really raise the bar in two areas- patchoulis and gourmonds. Dincanto gives us the best of both of these star players, and throws in some amazing jasmine as well. This thing is like my all-time favorite Ummagumma’s dressed-up cousin and has had me coming back for more since the first spray.
Ierofante • Quartana- Arguably the best of an already excellent house, Ierfofante is fragrant storytelling at it’s best. Beginning with a gasoline accord (jet fuel, according to Quartana) to symbolize the blasting off on the hierophants’ journey, and zipping through bright spices, it ultimately lands on one of the classiest most luxurious smoky-leather bases you can find anywhere.
Indigo Smoke • Arquiste- It’s one of the best tea fragrances. It’s one of the best incense fragrances. It’s one of the best non-leather smoky fragrances. Indigo Smoke distinguishes itself by being a standout in more than one emphasis, and the medley is absolute perfection. I believe this fragrance will be Arquiste’s sleeper hit, and will end up as widely well-regarded and talked about as Misfit eventually.
Santal Umeshu • Scents of Wood- Move over Plum in Cognac- I’ve got a new favorite from Scents of Wood! This unique fragrance has a perfect blend of creamy sandalwood and boozy umeshu plum. This thing is amazing and it blooms on skin in a way that has to be experienced to be understood. Highly (highly) recommend for any boozy fruit fragrance fans.
Golestan • Tauer- This one also replaces an old favorite as it is easily my new favorite from Tauer- which is saying a lot! This has to be one of the coziest florals I’ve ever smelled, in part because of it’s resinous base and use of patchouli; but mainly because of the beautiful honey in it’s heart. The rose and jasmine are so well-blended they almost become a new fantasy floral that is just delightful atop all those warm resins. Definitely something that can be worn comfortably at any time of year.
To My Father • Vilhelm Parfumerie- This is the second perfume on this list made by the legendary Bertrand Duchaufour, and the only one I bought the same day I smelled it. Not everyone agrees with me, but this is the most stylistically similar fragrance to my favorite Slumberhouse compositions (Baque, Jeke), but with top notes! Sweet stewed stone fruits, whiskey, tobacco, and leather- what’s not to like? All expertly combined by one of the best perfumers to do it. I highly recommend for any fans of Slumberhouse to at least try it out.
Honorable Mentions: Kiste • Slumberhouse (2022 version), Luce • Meo Fusciuni, 2# Nota Di Viaggio (shukran...) • Meo Fusciuni, Summer in Paro • Hima Jomo, White Whale • Masque, Ambre Safrano • BDK
Some Great Things I Found Not Sold In Our Shop: Moon Bloom & Slowdive by Hiram Green (Netherlands), everything from Bombay Perfumery (India), and everything from Nosa Profumi (India)
Mid November of 2022, I was asked to join a panel on fragrance for The American Society of Aesthetics (ASA), at the Embassy suites in downtown Portland. The below post is inspired by my presentation and represents the core ideas shared that day.
Many years ago, I married into a family that owned a fragrance boutique and ended up working for them for over twenty years. Before joining the business, my previous experience with fragrance was limited to smelling a few things in department stores and lightly exploring essential oils. I admit that initially I was quick to judge smells as good or bad and had a very limited vocabulary when it came to describing my olfactive experiences. Since then, I have consciously tapped into my curiosity around the world of scent and been open to smells that I would have earlier labeled as unpleasant or downright repulsive. It can be illuminating to slow down and smell with more mindfulness and less judgement.
Working on the retail side of the fragrance industry for so many years, I continue to find it fascinating that most of us will go in for a second sniff of something that we find highly unpleasant or confusing. I’ve even had customers experience a gag reflex only to put the scent strip back up to their nose in an effort to comprehend the experience. Dopamine is released in the body upon smelling something novel and the brain actually creates new tracks in it’s effort to integrate this new smell into our olfactive experience. We are wired to quickly recognize specific smells as unsafe such as rotten food, burning plastic, human waste…etc. but other polarizing smells such as gasoline, sulfur, even body odors may deserve our attention in a less biased manner. Opening our minds to a more expanded smell palette only widens our enjoyment and appreciation of our daily life experience.
Animalics in perfume have been around since Antiquity. In Egypt, animalic notes ( fragrant materials that were originally sourced from animals), were used to embalm the body and communicate with the divine. Some were used for their curative virtues. Supposedly Cleopatra made perfumes with healing powers from the secretions of civet cats. During the Renaissance period, it was the upper class that partook of animalic scents which became a symbol for delineating high social status from the commoners. Animalic notes include but are not limited to the following (the fragrances listed in parentheses are examples of blends that highlight that specific animalic material) :
Musk (Musc Tonkin by Parfum d’Empire)
Musk was sourced from musk deer which are native to Asia. The material was thought to hold aphrodisiac powers. The species is now protected and the trade in animal musk has been prohibited. A synthetic musk is used for contemporary formulations.
Ambergris (Mxxx. by Eris)
One percent of Sperm Whales produce what is known as Ambergris. These whales have a waxy film that coats the inside of their intestines, protecting them from sharp squid beaks and cuttlefish. Once this excrement leaves the body, it is cured by the sunlight, oxygen and saltwater. The result is the most wonderful, warm and enveloping scent that adds fullness to a blend as well as serving as an excellent fixative.
Civet (Ella by Arquiste)
Civets are small, nocturnal animals that are found mostly in southeast Asia. They are not actually a cat but instead a cat like creature of the viverred family. Civet has been used for pain relief and as a sedative but in fragrance it used as both a fixative and a scent. In it’s full strength, civet can smell very fecal but diluted it is smooth, and can read as a radiant floral.
Castoreum (Incense Rosé by Tauer)
The North American beaver secretes a fatty oil to protect it’s fur from cold and humidity. Castoreum gives off a fecal smell with strong nuances of leather and a slightly fruity aspect.
Hyraceum (Salome by Papillon)
The Hyrax are small mammals that are native mostly to Africa and the Middle East. Their habit is to defecate in the same location over generations which creates a rock like excrement that is a combination of both urine and feces sometimes referred to as African Stone. It is a deeply complex fermented scent that combines the elements of musk, castoreum, civet and agarwood.
Beeswax (Bengale Rouge by Papillon)
The essence of beeswax absolute is used in perfumery to render golden-ambery notes, and it’s honeyed facets serve well as a middle or base note.
My personal collection includes an extensive variety of vintage fragrances. Many of these earlier fragrances were not shy about using animalics in their compositions to create multi-layered lushness and depth which many contemporary fragrances are challenged to match. The International Fragrance Association (IFRA), is an industry regulatory body that sets the standards for what can and cannot be used in perfumery today. Due to ethical issues, most animalics are not sourced from animals these days but are created synthetically. Among our selection at Fumerie, all of the fragrance houses have declared that they do not use animal testing in creating their fragrances and that they abide by the IFRA standards. Just as travel can broaden our perspective of the world, so can one’s curiosity around unfamiliar and polarizing smells enhance our world experientially and sensorially. Wishing you all abundant joy and pleasure in exploring the limitless possibilities of scent discovery.
Hello!
My name is Michael Whitby, and I am thrilled to be introducing myself to a community I have already cared deeply for as the new Manager of Fumerie Parfumerie!
I have had the great fortune of meeting quite a few exceptional folks in-store and online since I started here in September, and before I go any further into this post I want to say: THANK YOU! As a career retailer I have to convey that the community around Fumerie is comprised of the kindest, most genuine, intelligent, and enthusiastic individuals that have made me feel more appreciated for doing my job than I have ever felt in 15+ years of retail and management. Thank you all again for the warm welcome, and the opportunity to serve you!
I would like to take a moment to explain my enthusiasm for fragrance and how I ended up coming onboard here at Fumerie. My entire journey actually started right here! In the Fall of 2019 I was often using candles and incense to help myself self-soothe and center myself in practices I had learned in therapy, and I found myself wondering “why don’t I do this throughout my day as well, with a fragrance?” The answer in my mind was “well, because you hate ‘cologne’ and all of the things you’ve been previously compelled to buy for special events, etc.” That is when I started searching for non-gendered fragrance, and specifically for something that had leather and rose (not knowing at all that this is a somewhat common pairing in perfumery).
My searching on the internet immediately exposed me to a much broader world of fragrance than I would have even imagined existing, and eventually straight to a Portland fragrance house called Imaginary Authors- and what looked like my ideal fragrance in Slow Explosions. I spent a few minutes reading the notes and even starting to watch a video review when I realized that there must be somewhere in Portland to smell this stuff! I live in Portland after all! Lo and behold, I found a perfume boutique just down the street from me that I had never noticed in my 10+ years living in Southeast- Fumerie Parfumerie.
Reading all the 5-star reviews and positive feedback for Fumerie online did not sway my preconception- I had been in other perfume shops before and I knew their game. I knew when I went in to smell Slow Explosions, someone was going to try and spray me with something I didn’t ask to be sprayed with and someone would try to sell me something else more expensive. Long story short- I had no idea how wrong I could be. Having the great fortune of meeting Tracy on the day I came in so determined to try/ buy this bottle had me leaving with samples, and the most genuine sense of interest I had experienced since getting into music as a teenager.
At every stage of my deepening affection for the art of fragrance, I came back to Tracy and Lele to ask questions, and Fumerie just to enjoy myself and explore more. I found myself met with such honest fostering of interest in this space, that I never questioned my enthusiasm for this medium at any point of my journey. Less than 6 months later I had made up my mind that perfume was going to be my new medium as an artist, and when I expressed my timid interest in creating perfume to Tracy in the shop one day she spent a great deal of time with me smelling some isolates and ingredients she happened to have in the shop that day, answering my questions and not making me feel like I was crazy for wanting to learn such a complex art. Nobody made her be that kind or supportive, and that experience is exactly why I want to be in the position I am now- helping to maintain a level of genuine enthusiasm and commitment in this space, and to hopefully help change the industry standard for what it means to curate and sell fragrant art.
In the time since my introduction to this art form, I sold all of my music gear (my best friend and I moved here from Tucson 15 years ago to make music; he is now the Station Director at XRay FM) to buy perfume-making materials and tools just before COVID hit. As I worked in grocery at the time, I was so happy to have made the investment in a new expressive medium that could be explored without public performance. For those reading between the lines- the majority of my time as a fragrance enthusiast has coincided with the pandemic. This means that I have a pretty unconventional background in how I have explored as an enthusiast, but what I lack in time I have made up for in opportunity. I started buying more samples online and many more materials than I likely would have if I were going out to eat and seeing movies still! I have tried so many things from around the country and world, and now prioritize fragrance in all of my travels. What I love about fragrance as a medium- there will always be more to try, there will always be art lost to time/opportunity/geography, and there will always be something in any of it that is just for the person smelling.
In summation I want to make clear one vital point- I join this team not as an amateur perfumer, but as an art enthusiast and career retailer with a true passion for brick-and-mortar small business. I have managed in many other senses (literally)- record stores, book stores, and gourmet grocery. You can ask anyone who has interviewed or hired me in the last 15 years; I believe whole-heartedly that local and small businesses are a pillar of healthy communities. I also believe Fumerie is by far the model to be followed. I am humbled, happy, and as enthusiastic as I can be to join the team here at Fumerie. I promise to do my best by all of you, and look forward to our shared future as a community!
Thank you and Happy New Year 2023!
Image by: Tom Barrett
When we begin to examine fragrance, it becomes apparent just how closely it is tied to our sense of identity. What do we offer up about ourselves when we apply our favorite fragrance in the morning? Or when we’re getting ready to go out at night? What fragrances do we gravitate toward when going through transitory stages in life? Are there specific smells and olfactive experiences that we will always associate with our sense of self? Questions we often hear at Fumerie can vary from “Does it smell too young/old for me?”, “Is it too masculine/feminine?”, and sometimes— in regards to niche fragrance— “Is it too weird?”. Now, as easy as it may be to respond with “That depends on your definition of masculinity/femininity” and “Sometimes weird is good”— often times deciding on whether or not a fragrance feels right on us is dependent on how we view ourselves in the first place.
Personally, I feel that woody and smoky fragrances are most reflective of my own identity. I am drawn to masculine, skewing towards androgynous, scents and I find more conventionally “feminine” scents don’t entice me as much. However, for someone else they wouldn’t feel quite like themselves without their signature soft floral fragrance. Although fragrance is it in its essence: unisex, collectively we are not immune to gender-geared marketing in fragrance. We can base our interests around our physical identities and that can often extend to our fragrance choices. Mx. from Eris Parfums is a great example of a fragrance that is inspired by identity. Made for all genders during a time of gender revolution, Mx. acknowledges this categorization in fragrance and leaves it behind. Mx. references identity in the more literal sense but there are many ways within the world of fragrance that we shape or reflect our identities. Relationships, jobs and our close circle of loved ones are definitely a factor in curating our scent-identities. Ultimately, your own preferences and insights on your scent are most important, as well as telling in regards to how you choose to be perceived.
Every January when the new year rolls around, we collectively look to build on our progress from the past year or for some, reinvent altogether. For fragrance lovers this may mean switching up a signature scent or seeking out a new one to better match a newfound identity. We may outgrow fragrances that inspired confidence in youth and find refuge in scents we once thought of as too mature. This olfactive journey looks different for everyone but it is undeniable that the right fragrance can embody an attitude, inspire confidence and offer reassurance. Often big life events like a change in career, a big move or the beginning/end to a relationship can inspire reinvention in the way we present ourselves. It’s frequent at Fumerie to go on a scent seeking journey with a customer that was motivated by one of these changes. Our connection to smell and ability to discern what truly speaks to us provides a wonderful opportunity to create an identity through fragrance. This identity speaks to the person we would like to be or who we feel we’ve always been. Going forward into this year what has shifted and what has stayed the same? What part of your identity are you looking forward to exploring through fragrance this year?
Wherever you’re headed, Fumerie hopes you’ll smell authentically you. Here’s to another year of discovering more fragrances and more about ourselves.
By Lele Faaleava
photo by guille-pozzi/ unsplash
My family moved to Eugene, Oregon when my brother’s and I were very young. For those of you that aren’t familiar, it’s a bit of a hippie town. Every few years the painted buses would roll into town and settle in on East 13th street in anticipation of the arrival of the Grateful Dead. Our family belonged to a co-op where we would get our tofu out of large tubs and grind our own peanut butter. On special evenings out, my beautiful mother attired in dress and heels, would envelop herself in the scent of soft amber and spice as she hugged me an early goodnight. As she did not typically include fragrance in her daily routine, the noticeable presence of perfume was enough to capture my attention and I enjoyed breathing in the captivating aroma. The scent that she wore was her own combination of oils self-blended at the local Essential Oils shop in town. Other than those small hand-labeled bottles of essential oils, I don’t recall my mom ever having what would traditionally be considered an actual bottle of perfume.
After graduating high school, I moved up North to Portland, Oregon which impressed me as being a big city. After all, Eugene had only one main bridge while Portland boasted a dozen. At the age of 25, I married into a family that owned a fragrance boutique that specialized in classic fragrance lines such as Guerlain, Caron and Jean Patou. It was a world that was completely foreign to me but I was intrigued, so much so that within a few years I left my other job and began working at The Perfume House full time. My husband at the time did his best to introduce me to the many fragrant options and varieties. Initially, nothing really spoke to me and I figured that maybe I simply had the type of skin that didn’t compliment fragrance. It wasn’t until we landed on a spicy, oriental scent that I recall being surprised at how intriguing and nuanced the right scent could be on skin ( for those curious, the fragrance was Secret de Venus by Worth). As I delved further into discovering my own personal tastes, I began sharing samples with my mom. She gravitated towards the vanilla and amber scents, which she wore beautifully.
My mother and I have always been close and I’m deeply grateful for the support and acceptance that she has consistently shown even in some of my more experimental phases. One example was my punk rock phase in which I spiked my hair and blared angry music, which my twin brother responded to by counter blasting Billy Joel and Supertramp (guess who won that particular music battle?). When I realized that the world of fragrance offered more than just a job or a minor passing interest, I took a deep dive into researching scent and collecting vintage fragrances that spoke to me. I found myself unable to walk past a fragrance counter without stopping and immersing myself in the array of endless scents. Even today I experience a flush of pleasure when entering a fragrance boutique, with the anticipation of scent exploration. As always, my mother responds to my interest with sincere curiosity and engagement. She asks many questions and we have had numerous in-depth conversations on the topic of perfume. During one visit, I brought along a book, Perfumes the A-Z Guide, by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez. I also brought a collection of samples for her to experience as I read to her the corresponding reviews that were notable for their remarkable descriptions and sly humor. My mom is an avid reader and found the book compelling and appreciated learning more about the world of fragrance in this manner. I’ve since gifted her the more recent edition of Perfumes the Guide, as well as several more samples for her to delve into and explore. Although she might not share the same passion for fragrance as I do, she is genuinely interested and always open to attaining more knowledge on the subject.
On my mother’s first visit to Fumerie, she expressed her delight through tears and wholehearted pride. She knows first-hand the profound challenges and adversity that I faced in realizing this dream, and I truly believe that her love and unwavering support throughout my life made it possible. My mother’s birthday is in August but she recently mentioned to me that she had fallen in love with the Jovoy fragrance Remember Me. Those that know me can attest that I tend to lack much in the way of patience, and I ended up gifting her the scent back in March in order for her to enjoy the scent now and throughout the year. It makes me happy to know
that she can spray this beautiful fragrance to her heart’s delight, and that she is experiencing the true pleasure of perfume. To my mom and all the mother’s out there, I unequivocally wish you a joyous and fragrant Mother’s Day!
On November 2, 2017, olfactive director François Duquesne and perfumer Ralf Schwieger visited Fumerie Parfumerie to talk about Aedes de Venustas and perfumery in general. It's been about nine months since the event and I finally got around to editing the photos; I went ahead and chose the four best shots. Enjoy!
Spring has sprung! The days are getting longer and warmer (and, in some cases, wetter). It's time to put away those heavy winter fragrances and break out your fresh, green spring scents. In this spirit, we have compiled a list of our favorite spring fragrances. Enjoy!
PÉNG LÁI Berdoues: Collection Grands Crus
Osmanthus is a bit of a shapeshifter: sometimes it's fruity and apricot-like while at other times it is earthy and hay-like. In Péng Lái, it's the former—a gorgeous, sparkling osmanthus composition that highlights the bright, fruity facets of this fascinating raw material. Named for the legendary land of Chinese mythology, Péng Lái is a delicately fruity osmanthus composition that smells at once vibrant and subdued. The combination of the apricot-like fruitiness of the osmanthus and the warm, resinous vanilla-like aroma of benzoin produces an interesting effect: a delicate, almost edible warmth that radiates off the skin. The tonka bean reinforces the warmth of the benzoin and augments the hay-like nuances of the osmanthus. Sparkling and effervescent, Péng Lái is the perfect choice for a spring fragrance.
FLORALUST Agonist
Floralust strikes with such immediacy, it can be a bit disorienting at first. In a world full of uninspired, wan florals, Agonist's magnolia-centric composition reminds us just how moving a truly great floral fragrance can be. Needless to say, I am quite fond of Floralust—in fact, I have been since I first encountered the fragrance last year. In addition to being utterly gorgeous, Floralust is perfect for springtime wear. It embodies all of the hope and rebirth of springtime with its delicate green tones and sweet white floral notes and achieves the perfect balance of frivolity and gravitas.
MONSERRAT Bruno Fazzolari
It is hard to find a challenging fruity floral fragrance. Indeed, fragrances in this family typically convey a sort of carefree elegance that seems almost antithetical to difficult or demanding structures. Monserrat is one of the few exceptions to this rule: a complex and intricately composed fruity floral that always has something new and exciting to share. Inspired by the burnished colors of classical Italian frescos, Monserrat is built around a core of delicate osmanthus and sweet jasmine. The apricot-like qualities of the osmanthus are augmented by the addition of apricot and the citrusy zing of grapefruit. So, the basic ingredients for a fruity floral fragrance are in place and had Monserrat stopped there, it would have been a fine fragrance; instead, Bruno Fazzolari added an inspired twist: the rooty, chalky, parched aroma of carrot seed and a "setting plaster" accord. These peculiar aromas offset the sweetness of the central composition and help to make Monserrat one of the best fruity floral fragrances currently on the market.
AEDES DE VENUSTAS Aedes de Venustas
When I first encountered Aedes de Venustas' signature fragrance, I was impressed with the hyper-literal rendering of the tomato leaf and rhubarb accords. Subsequent wearings have led to a deeper appreciation for the underlying structure and its ability to transform based on the angle of observation—like one of those drawings containing both an old woman and a young lady. Sometimes it smells like digging in a garden and at other times, it smells like fir trees in the dead of winter. Over the years, perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour has become a master of modern chypres, composing around the empty spaces left by IFRA and EU regulations. Duchaufour fleshes out the greenery with earthy vetiver and an almost liturgical incense—in typical Duchaufour style, the composition is sparse and airy, leaving plenty of room for meditation and quite contemplation.
ICHNUSA Profumum Roma
At certain concentrations, green notes can take on an almost petrol-like quality. I always enjoy fragrances that achieve this olfactory illusion if for no other reason than the fact that this particular combination of fresh-cut grass, gasoline, old wood and crushed leaves reminds me of the old toolshed where my grandfather kept his tools—along with a canister of gasoline. Ichnusa is one such fragrance. Opening with an intense burst of green notes, Ichnusa slowly opens to reveal a multifaceted tapestry of earthy notes. The fragrance hits several octaves at once, from the earthy hum of mulch and wet hay to the crisp high notes of fig leaf and myrtle.
PÉLARGONIUM Aedes de Venustas
Aedes de Venustas Pélargonium is, at the time of writing, the newest addition to the line. Composed by Nathalie Feisthauer, Pélargonium is an ode to its namesake, Pelargonium graveolens: a specific cultivar of geranium with a unique rosy aroma. Unlike most flowers, the source of geranium oil is not the blossoms but rather the leaves of the plant. Feisthauer deftly accents the central geranium note, which she describes as “aromatic, with a crushed-leaf facet, less fruity and more balsamic than rose, almost incense-like," with cool, silvery orris and aromatic cedar. The earthy facets of the material are augmented by the addition of Haitian vetiver and oakmoss while the lemony-peppery facets of elemi enhance the fresh and balsamic facets of the geranium. The resulting composition is a tour-de-force of aromatic woods, suffused with the citrusy zing of bergamot—a perfect choice for springtime in the Pacific Northwest.
L'EAU Tauer
Andy Tauer is not a fan of convention. A few years ago, when he first delved into fresh fragrances with Cologne du Maghreb, he put his own spin on the classic cologne structure. His most recent release, L'Eau is no different. This time around, we find Tauer approaching fresh fragrances from a different angle. Inspired by a blooming lemon tree on his estate, L'Eau is an attempt to translate fresh citrus notes into an eau de parfum. The result is both delicate and beautiful: a shimmering floral with citrus accents. The central theme is, of course, lemon blossom, a seldom-used material that is lighter and tangier than orange blossom with an odor profile close to neroli. A cool, rooty orris provides body, while a musky woody base rounds out the composition. The resulting fragrance is fresh and citrusy—it delicately shimmers in the light and suffuses the wearer in a gauzy, musky-floral haze.
There is perhaps no one more qualified to answer questions about the perfume industry than Miriam Vareldzis. She began her career with a degree in architecture and interiors from the University of Oregon and a job at Skidmore, Owings & Merrill, one of the largest architectural firms in the world. The story might have ended there had it not been for an adventurous career change and a meeting with one of the most successful figures in the fragrance industry: Ann Gottlieb. This meeting led to an apprenticeship with Ms. Gottlieb and eventually to a position as a professional fragrance evaluator at International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF). Over the course of her career while holding positions in fragrance evaluation, product development, marketing, and sales, Miriam has celebrated success with Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Gap, Banana Republic, The Body Shop, Neutrogena, Victoria’s Secret, Bath & Body Works, John Paul Mitchell Haircare, as well as a bevy of celebrity and niche perfumery clients.
After the launch of her line 40notes, Miriam's interest in naturals grew. I was at this time that she first began to delve into the origin of these magnificent ingredients. This curiosity led her to join Robertet, a French fragrance house and raw materials supplier.
Miriam visited Fumerie Parfumerie on the evening of March 10, 2018. At the event, Miriam introduced the Palette Naturals Collection—her collection of 100% natural perfumery blending accords—and guided attendees through a mini-fragrance training workshop. She also discussed a number of topics related to the fragrance industry including how to define 'natural perfumery' in the modern marketplace, transparency in the fragrance industry, how fragrance development and the industry itself have changed over the past several years and where the industry may be headed.
Check out pictures from the event below and be sure to sign up for our upcoming Fragrance Swap!
Fellow perfume enthusiast Eric Hill's personal fragrance collection.
Image courtesy of Eric Hill
How long can a bottle of perfume be stored?
This is a question that we are asked quite often. It makes a lot of sense when you consider that a bottle of perfume is very often an investment. With ever-increasing bottle sizes, the question becomes ever more relevant.
So how long will your new bottle of perfume last? It depends.
Before we dig into this question, let’s first talk about what this question is really asking. The concern at the heart of this question is this: over time, the building blocks of a perfume can become damaged causing your favorite perfume to smell “off.” The prototypical “off” scent has been described as nail varnish or burnt sugar. This occurs gradually and if you are wearing the fragrance every day, you might not even realize that it has happened.
So what causes this to happen? There are three main environmental factors that can damage fragrances: light, heat and oxygen. The first two are really easy to control. Oxygen, however, is a bit more difficult. In order to protect your fragrances, we recommend following these easy guidelines.
Obviously, most of us aren’t going to take every precaution listed above, but by implementing a few of our suggestions, you can dramatically increase the life of your fragrance. That being said, there are a few things to consider when thinking about long-term storage.
Hopefully, these tips will come in handy and you can pass them along to all of your friends. Together, we can clear up some of the misconceptions about perfume and save some perfumes from the damaging effects of light and heat in the process. We have bottles in our collections dating back to the 1920s and they still smell wonderful. There is no reason that the fragrances in your collection can’t last a decade or more if you take a few simple steps to protect them from light and heat.
Vintage perfume expert and olfactive director Barbara Herman visited Fumerie Parfumerie on Saturday, February 10, 2018. Her name might be familiar to some from her blog Yesterday’s Perfume which as the name implies, focuses on vintage fragrances. Barbara has been collecting vintage fragrances for many years and decided to combine her passion for writing with her love of fragrance in her book Scent and Subversion: Decoding a Century of Provocative Perfume. At the event, she read from her book, shared some of her favorite vintage fragrances and discussed her magnificent line of fragrances, ERIS. Check out the photos below.
I can't remember a year in recent memory where the niche releases were so consistently strong and original. Some fragrances were included on this list because they push boundaries and explore uncharted terrain while others were included because they add something new and interesting to an established style. However, they all have one thing in common: they are unequivocally great fragrances that we haven't been able to get enough of.
Now, without further ado, our picks for the Best Fragrances of 2017.
Andy Tauer's Attar is dark, rich and mysterious. Inspired by the centuries-old tradition of perfume making in the Middle East and Far East, Attar AT blends notes of leather, birch tar and cistus labdanum with sweet jasmine, animalic castoreum and rich sandalwood and vetiver. This fragrance is presented as a fragrance oil, with no alcohol or carrier oil added—one single drop is enough to last all through the day.
In 2015, Liz Moores released Salome to near-universal acclaim so expectations were understandably high for her next release. Thankfully, Dryad does not disappoint. This deep green chypre is built around a core of oakmoss and narcissus. Dryad epitomizes the rich, multi-layered style that Papillon has become famous for and proves that it is still possible to make sprawling classical compositions in this modern era.
The latest fragrance to emerge from the artistic collaboration between perfumer Antoine Lie and blogger and author Barbara Herman, Mx. is a particularly timely release, inspired by gender fluidity and putting into words the shift that has been taking place over the past two decades as the masculine/feminine divide slowly disappears. In keeping with its theme, Mx. is a rich woody composition with notes of sandalwood, saffron, cedar, patchouli and benzoin—taking full advantage of the warm, woody aromas that don't scream masculine or feminine.
Anticipation for this fragrance has been steadily growing since it was first announced several years ago. Nuit de Bakélite, composed by Isabelle Doyen is an absolute triumph—a tuberose unlike anything you have ever smelled. It is at once earthy, green, peppery, leathery and camphoraceous—more often than not, it tends more toward the inky green woods of Robert Piguet's Bandit than any tuberose fragrance in recent memory. Nuit de Bakélite is easily one of the best releases of the year and a must-try for any perfume lover.
O, Unknown!, the newest addition to the Imaginary Authors line is an absolutely stunning, delicate composition built around black tea, Lapsang Souchong and orris. The fragrance shifts and oscillates as it moves through its various stages, from the dry parched aroma of an old library to smoky woods. A warm and comforting fragrance perfect for the holiday season.
Bruno Fazzolari keeps raising the bar with each release. This year's Ummagumma finds the San Francisco-based perfumer retreading some of the territory first explored with Cadavre Exquis; however, this time around he ditches the candy sweet accord for something darker and more satisfying—bitter chocolate. While there are gourmand notes present here, this is by no means a typical gourmand. The fragrance quickly shifts gears after a chocolatey opening and dives headlong into tobacco and burnished woods.
Thank you to everyone who participated in the Patch Flash Coloring Contest. We received some great submissions and couldn't be happier with the results. We would also like to take the opportunity to congratulate Roxana S from Romania whose submission went above and beyond.
Roxana S (Romania)
In addition, although we were not officially offering a prize for the runner-up, Andy liked Rodrigo R's submission so much he decided to send him his new soaps: Solar Engineer and Data Miner.
Rodrigo R (Washington, DC)
Fumerie's fragrance swaps are a great opportunity to trade your unwanted fragrances and meet other members of the fragrance community. We hosted our fourth fragrance swap on Wednesday, August 30. As usual, the selection of fragrances was absolutely amazing with everything from vintage Guerlain classics to cutting-edge niche fragrances on display. Check out the photos below and see how many bottles you can identify!
Thank you to everyone who attended our Fragrance Classification Event. We had a lot of fun and we hope everyone found the event informative and illuminating. A few days after the event I sent out an email to all attendees with PDF copies of all of the information that we passed around that night and a chart comparing the three classification systems that we discussed that evening: Fragrances of the World, Haarmann & Reimer and Société Française des Parfumeurs. Since we have been receiving requests for this information, I decided to post it here so it is permanently accessible to anyone who would like to use it. You can find links to both documents in PDF format below. Additionally, we have included some images of the event, taken by our good friend Nicole Amzallag-Divine. Thanks again to everyone who attended and be sure to sign up for our upcoming Fragrance Swap!
Fragrance Classification Presentation
Fragrance Classification Chart
In anticipation of our upcoming fragrance classification event on July 18, I thought it would be fun to write about some of my favorite fragrance families and share a few of my favorite fragrances from each family. If you are interested in attending our event, you can sign up here. Now, without further ado, my favorite fragrance families:
It was leather fragrances that first ignited my passion for fragrance. While there are many fragrances that contain leather accords, the leather family is unique. It is characterized by the use of dry, woody notes that attempt to recreate the characteristic aroma of leather (smoke, charred wood, etc.). Classic leather fragrances typically feature white floral accents like orange blossom and jasmine.
CUIR DE RUSSIE Chanel
Chanel's Cuir de Russie was the first leather fragrance that I discovered. I fell in love with it immediately and, to this day, it remains my favorite fragrance. Cuir de Russie is the archetypal leather fragrance with white floral notes of orange blossom and indolic jasmine and a warm leathery effect imparted through the use of birch tar. However, what really sets Cuir de Russie apart is the addition of a gorgeous, high-quality orris root.
SCANDAL Lanvin
This is the fragrance that Edmond Roudnitska hailed as the prototype of the "fruity-aldehydic-leather" family and lauded as a perfect example of a composition that evokes rather than represents a note in his 1980 publication Le Parfum. The long-discontinued fragrance features notes of leather, orris root, clary sage and oakmoss.
CUIR D'ANGE Hermes: Hermessence
Cuir d'Ange was inspired by the Hermès leather vault and is as soft and supple as a fine leather glove. It has an airy feel and, in many ways, feels like the culmination of Jean-Claude Ellena's decades-long quest to strip away all extraneous elements from his compositions. What remains here is a sublime, subdued leather composition built around a core structure of leather, hawthorn, musk and heliotrope.
Leather chypre fragrances are a subcategory of the chypre fragrance family and are distinguished from leather fragrances by their dominant chypre structure (bergamot, cistus labdanum and oakmoss). The chypre framework provides a template that perfumers can dress in many different ways. In the case of leather chypres, leathery accents (smoke, charred woods and animalic notes) are added.
BANDIT Robert Piguet
Perfumer Germaine Cellier's masterpiece is a no-nonsense tour-de-force of green notes, moss and leather. In Bandit, the central chypre structure is bolstered by the addition of an inky black leather note (courtesy of isobutyl quinoline), a huge slug of oakmoss, the resinous verdancy of galbanum and a bevy of animalic notes.
ANTAEUS Chanel
It is scary how good this fragrance is. Antaeus is the result of a collaboration between the in-house perfumer Jacques Polge and François Demachy (now the in-house perfumer at Dior). Antaeus was released in 1981 and features notes of castoreum, oakmoss, patchouli, rose and cistus labdanum.
AZURÉE Estée Lauder
Estée Lauder's Azurée is truly a forgotten classic. Originally released in 1969, Azurée was inspired by the Mediterranean and features notes of oakmkoss, leather and sage and opens with a bright burst of aldehydes.
In the same way that leather chypres adorn the basic chypre structure with smoky, leathery notes, fruity chypres flesh out and embellish these compositions with the addition of fruity notes like peach and plum.
MITSOUKO Guerlain
Jacques Guerlain's masterpiece is often cited as the best fragrance ever created. Taking Coty's Chypre as a starting point, Guerlain enhanced the rather skeletal composition with spices and fruits. Mitsouko's central accord of oakmoss, jasmine and a Firmenich base called Persicol (prominently featuring gamma-undecalactone aka aldehyde C-14) is mind-blowingly gorgeous and one of my favorite accords of all time.
FEMME Rochas
I have been wearing Femme a lot lately—my wife came across a full bottle of vintage extrait at a thrift store and I have to say, it is beyond compare. At once leathery, fruity, animalic and mossy, Rochas Femme is one of my favorite fragrances. It has a dusky quality that makes it perfect for autumn (although I wear it year round). Femme features notes of oakmoss, leather, civet, jasmine and sandalwood. As heavenly as the fragrance is, Femme is just as notable for the unique story of its creation. Roudnitska composed the fragrance during the waning days of World War II. Supply shortages forced him to trade for hard-to-source materials and use whatever materials he could find in storage. One such material labeled simply "Fut Cinque" (or Barrel 5) had been sitting in the stockyard at DeLaire had been sitting in the sun and cold for many years. The material contained therein possessed a delightful candied prune scent. This material became a key part of the finished composition and imparted a crystalline fruity accord to the classic fragrance. Unfortunately, Femme has been reformulated many times since its initial release and its current form bears little resemblance to the sublime heights of the original.
DIORELLA Dior
Another Roudnitska classic, Diorella is perhaps the purest example of the perfumer's lifelong quest to strip away extraneous layers. Antoine Saint-Exupery noted that "Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away." This philosophy informed Roudnitska's approach to perfume composition and with Diorella is, in many ways, his greatest achievement. Roudnitska's signature accord of jasmine, sandalwood and oakmoss is present in a perfectly balanced composition that has been compared to a perfectly exposed photograph.
In order to fully understand the fragrances we love, we must understand the materials that make their existence possible. This simple idea gave rise to our NOTES series. With each new event, we focus on a new class of raw materials used in perfumery. On Thursday, April 27 for the fourth installment of the series, we explored floral notes in a group led by Nicole Amzallag-Divine. Among the featured notes were jasmine, rose, osmanthus and ylang-ylang. Below we have included some photos from the event. Thank you to everyone who attended!
